I have trouble fixing the terrible seams I’m getting. I’ve followed Elli’s print tuning guide and calibrated extruder, tuned PA (it’s now 0.035) and extrusion multiplier.

I’ve tried adjusting both retraction length and speed, but it doesn’t seem to have much impact. I’m not using “wipe on retract” or “retract on layer change”, I only retract if travel distance is longer than 3mm. Retract is 0.3mm @35mm/s.

I’ve tried reducing PA smooth time too, but this also doesn’t seem to have a noticable impact.

I’ve tried reducing seam gap from the default 10% in Orca all the way down to 0%, but the bad seams persist.

I’ve tried with “wipe on loops” both disabled and enabled with no difference.

I’ve tried with both arachne and classic wall generator, no difference.

I’ve tried different wall orders, inner/outer, inner/outer/inner and outer/inner, all with the same bad seams.

Filament in the picture is matte PLA, it is without doubt dry and generally prints well aside from the seams. It’s stored vacuum sealed with silica, and I use a filament dryer to dry if I suspect wet filament.

I’m running out of ideas for where to tweak to get a decent result.

    • DreadPotato@sopuli.xyzOP
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      9 months ago

      No, I’ve tried with that enabled as well, same issue. This isn’t before a layer change, it’s when it goes from extruding the walls to extruding the infill.

      But even without infill this happens. It’s the end of the outer wall that doesn’t connect to the beginning of the outer wall and it’s not really fixed by reducing seam gap, so I’m not sure what’s actually causing it.

  • _haha_oh_wow_@sh.itjust.works
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    9 months ago

    Randomize Z seam and make sure your flow/retraction settings are as good as you can get them.

    Messing around with your nozzle temperature might help too: Keep in mind that the thermistor in the heat block might be off by a few degrees so if you can measure the temperature directly as a comparison, it can help you figure out how much it’s usually off by and adjust accordingly.