A thermistor is just a resistor that changes resistance based on temperature. All you need to do is hook up a multimeter and wiggle the cable. If the resistance is consistent then it’s fine physically.

Most hotends have an NTC 10k so at 25 degrees C the resistance is 10K ohms. The higher the temperature the lower the resistance will be.

If you have a different type it will need to be configured in your firmware as well.

What helped me a lot is to find a model (STEP file) of the printer you have and import that into whatever CAD program you prefer.

I found FreeCAD to be by far the most pleasant program to use. It is not even close. No accounts, no cloud , no subscriptions, no “AI”. None of that modern SAAS bullshit or enshittification. FreeCAD updates make it better instead of worse.

It is definitely not perfect but it is free and open source and the developers have done a really good job with this.

Anyway, once you’ve imported the model into CAD it becomes much much easier to design parts around it. You can find many models on sites like grabcad.com but you will need to make an account to download (urgh). Just fill in some random BS on a throwaway account and you’re fine though.

Ah I see the picture in the OP still has the old version. Indeed that is true and therefore I redesigned the YX joints to make nice 90 degree angles with the belts. In that version I made the idlers sit on the same screws that held the YX joint to the rail slider.

The belts did not make 90 degree paths from the stepper motor towers and also not from the YX joints to the toolhead. This caused uneven tension that was most noticable when the toolhead got close to the YX joint or when the YX joint got close to the stepper tower. The belt angle would change based on the location of either object and that changed the amount of force needed to pull it.

I’ve learned that the belts ideally make 90 degree angles when pulling something. One belt path comes out the left side of the idler and the other comes out of the right side. At the toolhead you insert the belt from either the left side or the right side to make the belt as straight as possible.

A few years ago I used glass beds. Not fancy ones, I got a large cheap mirror from the hardware store and a glass cutter. Both combined were cheaper than a single bed meant for 3D printing and for PLA they lasted multiple months. PEI is just more practical since it won´t randomly break and is flexible making part removal very easy.

I ruined it by trying to print PETG on it without any adhesion layer in between. It took out a nice chunk of glass from the center.

That is…pretty minor compared to some of the catastrophic mistakes here haha.

I thought of that a well. The resin will likely not get everywhere. The idea was saving costs as resin is kinda expensive.

I think it’s cheaper than using resin haha.

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Laughs in Dutch

I… may have short circuited the hotend fan mosfet and broke it. I just let them run at full speed since then.

This is getting out of hand, now there are two of them!

Surely you can’t be serious.

I actually have a pretty decent design already, it’s just that I’m looking to upgrade to ballscrews and unlock more potential with the machine.

It is designed around linear rails that I was able to get through my job, they come from discarded equipment and I wanted to give them a second use. It has worked as a decent laser engraver for a while now.

The next iteration will have two sliders per rail on the Y axis as fortification, instead of one MGN12H it will use two MGN12C sliders. I also want to reprint the corner blocks with gyroid infill and fill them up with resin or concrete.

Beans beans the musical food the more you eat the more you toot!

It is meant mostly for milling circuit boards and laser engraving. I believe belts are good enough for that since the bit load is so tiny here.

Later though I want to upgrade to ballscrews and will have to redesign the current machine.

You can make one if you have a 3D printer and some linear rails. I have a somewhat steady supply of CNC parts through my job and have designed a CNC machine around that.

I got rid of mine and replaced it with an induction hob with power management. This way it can run on just 2.5KW but also on 7.5KW. Depending on your electrical connection.

I’ve found that 2.5 is plenty for me. No reason to change the electrical wiring.

It’s so much more pleasant to cook on than gas. It responds faster and also the cooking fumes go into the suction hood rather than all around it.

Gas produces a huge extra volume of combustion products and that ruins the efficiency of your ventilation system. Never mind the toxicity of the combustion products.

I’ve always found it funny that you don’t need it for the platinum achievement.

The game gets also better when you play without the charm imo.

If it was AI generated code then nothing of value was lost.

Yes yes especially if you’re in the Dutch market. Please cancel :)