I have been using my Bambu A1 mini for the last several months without major issue, but suddenly I can’t get anything to print. Even a benchy detaches before finishing.
I have scrubbed the plate with a fresh sponge, soap and water. I kept my filament in a dehydrator for a couple of days, then immediately tried to print.
There is a local problem, where an illegal landfill caught fire, and it can’t be put out. I smell burning rubber all the time. Could that be the cause of the print failure? What else can I do?
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My first guess is that your temp is off, which is causing the curling you see at the top of the archways and the nozzle is catching that. You might try printing a temp tower (one with exterior overhangs, not just the bridges) to dial in your temp settings.
The temp of the bed or nozzle? I am using generic PLA.
Nozzle. Essentially your part isn’t cooling fast enough, so the less structure under the print, the more it tends to curl up as it cools. Also, make sure your cooling fan is working properly
Any videos of when the print fails? Is it all prints or just the Benchy? Does it always fail at the same height?
From the available info, I’d guess it got knocked off the bed because the nozzle hit the curled overhang, which indicates the first layer is too high, decreasing adhesion, and the fan is not blowing enough, so the overhangs don’t cool enough, which allows them to curl upwards and get in the way of the nozzle.
More info = better diagnosis.
Everything is failing. There are definitely collisions happening.
How do you reduce the thickness of the first layer?
Under Quality – Layer Height – First Layer Height. Adjust the layer height as needed. Generally speaking, your first layer should be no less than half the nozzle diameter. So, a .40mm nozzle first layer height should be .20mm. Thought for larger beds, you may wish to increase the first layer height a bit to help with bed adhesion over a wide area.
My first inclination is to got to Quality – Walls and surfaces – Avoid Crossing walls and check that box. See what happens when you print your Benchy.
If you still have issues, go to you filament settings for the filament you are printing with, (the little pencil to the right of the filament box), make sure you have the Advanced slider on, click on the Settings Overrides tab and check the Length, Z-hop height, On surfaces, (select All Surfaces in the drop down box to the right), Retraction speed, (the default is fine), the De-retraction speed, (set to zero), Travel Distance threshold, Retract on layer change, Wipe while retracting, and wipe distance.
This is a start.
Lower the Z offset. Not by too much, or it’ll scratch the bed.
“Everything is failing” is not useful info at all. Post a video of the failure happening if you don’t know how to describe it.
Maxwell asked if it was all prints failing it just the benchy. OP replied “everything is failing”.
Ok, I am having trouble uploading the video. Anyway, all of the prints will be fine up to a point, then detach. The nozzle is colliding with the models. In some cases, I can see the model being pushed down on one side or other by the nozzle before it detaches.
Yeah, if the nozzle is hitting the part, then it’s very likely a cooling issue. If an steep overhang isn’t cooled properly, it’ll curl upwards.
Either you’re printing too hot, or the fan is too slow or failing. For PLA, you can leave the fan at 100% after the first or second layer, and print between 195 and 205°C. Printing too fast also means the fan may struggle with the amount of hot plastic.
Can you paste your slicer settings?
All of the advice here is great but that is a Bambu printer, you should run its calibration routine again I would say and see what it says it also should be able to compensate if the bed is warped if you tell it to do bed leveling (unless the A1 doesn’t do that, I think it does though).
Also, when you say collisions is the printer colliding with itself or the part? You can also run an homing routine and manually move the hotend around to see if it has issues.
Also RE the local event, is the air temp really hot where you are? You might need extra part and hotend cooling if the ambient temp is like 40C or something. I mean like tweak the slicer not put an external fan on it necessarily hah.
Stretched / worn / missing tooth on z-belt?