Having played both electric keyboards with weighted keys and analog pianos, the feel of the keys are most definitely not the same.

Electric weighted keyboards all have nearly identical actions. Analog keyboards tend to be very individualistic. Electrics are smooth through their stroke, exhibiting an even effort. The initial press of the key is less effort. There is less inertia to over come in the system. You are just closing a switch with a weighted feel.

With an analog key, you need to not only over come the inertia of the key but also the hammer to get it to start moving, but you also have the friction of the pivot points to overcome. So it requires more effort to start moving before all the parts “break free” and then move more like your weighted electric keys.

Plus it’s only a 76 key board vs the 88 keys on a real piano. So some songs are literally impossible to play on many electric pianos.

On the other hand, electrics don’t take up as much room or weight as much. Which makes them far easier to move and a lot easier to get help to carry down the stairs.

I seldom use a .40mm nozzle much anymore since I mostly do functional prints like these gears. I have found the .60mm nozzle is a good compromise for speed in printing, better strength, and good accuracy.

Interestingly enough, a .40mm will print nearly or as fast as a .60mm nozzle on Bambu printer in general. This because Bambu optimizes their slicer setting for the .40mm nozzle. What it does give up a bit is between layer strength. This is due to to the smaller contact area difference between layers. I can get the same strength with 2 perimeters using a .60mm that would take 3 perimeters with a .40mm nozzle.

I wasn’t aware you could even get these dots. I came across them by accident and though for the $5 for 100 of these dots I would try them. These work well enough I don’t think I need to change them.

Part lazy design choice and part running these gears for a few minutes at speed to observe real world function. Spoked FDM plastic gears probably would not run long enough at 500rpms and there is no soft start on a lathe. And since most of the strength with FDM printed items lies in the skin of the part, removing half the skin would reduce the rigidity.

Never thought about Pointillism. But I can’t say I a big fan of that genre of art. I’m more about folk art.

You do that and you are taking the cats home with you.

To Infinity and Beyond!

Been there done that. Didn’t work. It did print the calibration print just fine. It just sucks when I try and print these gears.

Nope, no problems so far. All 3 work just fine.

I need to know if the gear train will fit on the banjo of the lathe first. I might run the plastic just to see how long PETG might last. If I want metal change gears, I will either spring for the 100+ dollars needed to buy the proper gears. Or I will spend $60 for the proper cutter and cut my own gears. But I need to be sure they will fit first.

I tell Grandma that I will get even with her before I die. She tells me I’m going to live forever then.

Dryer didn’t do squat to make a difference. The filament was at a steady 14Rh for several days for both nozzles. The only change that made a difference that made a difference was the nozzle swap.

I ain’t got the time to wait for Gentoo to finish compiling. I’m old and don’t have that many years left to live. And LFS, well madness lies on that path. I have seen it and barely escaped.

Debian is kind of cool again in a hipster sort of way if you aren’t running a bunch of servers. I do wonder why Slack has faded so. It was the Arch of it’s day.

I don’t have a mouse pad. Just that green plastic shelf/desk protector that Grandma rummaged up for me in her random pile of plunder. My daughters used to steal my mouse pads back when they were still at home and in school.

I did get even with them though. I would buy Hersey bars and leave them on my desk and never eat them. Drove them crazy.

You must not pay much attention to what is placed on your burger then. Burger King or McDonald’s is all the same stack of crap on a bun. They both smother the patty with all the stuff I listed to hide the low quality. No matter if it’s a beef whopper or the impossible whopper. If you don’t believe me, buy one of each and take them apart to compare.

I’mma still get cat hair on them. Like death and taxes, cat hair is inevitable everywhere.

Purple “School Glue” is all you need. It’s cheap and if you work in an elementary school, free for the bending over and picking it up. I’ve got a life time supply from teaching for a mere 4 years.

Lubrication is kind of an issue. You want to oils over grease. And only a thin coating. You will find that lubricated rods and rails attract dust. A lot of dust with kids and pets. And that dust is VERY abrasive and will chew up the seals on you bearings unless you are constantly wiping and relubing. So, this is a time when less is more.

I use a SuperLube silicone grease to fill the bearings before assembling them onto the rods for my Mk3S. They have wiper seals that are meant to wipe the linear rods as they move and hold the grease in. I never oil those rods. The dust they attract will destroy those wiper seals in short order. I do, however wipe the rods with a dry paper towel before I print. In the 8 years I have owned the machine, I have replaced the bearings just once after about 4 years.

The little Bambu A1 Mini I have has open bearings on their linear rails and rods. Those require wiping clean and relubing with a special high tack oil on a scheduled basis. And yes, they are filthy when I clean them.

It took me longer than I care to admit that I no longer needed a full office suite. And for me, Abiword and Gnumeric meet my light and simple needs.

I still have feelings for LibreOffice though.😰

So, I might need to add weight to prevent lift off? These dots are really thin. Like they dang near missed the whole dot tree when they sliced it down thin.