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3 yr. ago

  • There are many good answers here already, just wanted to add to it.

    It sounds very much like what you’re seeing could be either a driver fault or a memory-related issue. Both can manifest as hard system freezes where nothing responds, not even Ctrl+Alt+Fx or SysRq. You mentioned this briefly before, and that still fits the pattern.

    If it’s a driver issue, it’s often GPU or storage related. A kernel module crashing without proper recovery can hang the whole system—especially graphics drivers like NVIDIA or AMD, or low-level I/O drivers handling your SSD or SATA controller. Checking dmesg -T and journalctl -b -1 after reboot for GPU resets, I/O errors, or kernel oops messages might reveal clues.

    If it’s memory pressure or the OOM killer, that can also lock a machine solid, depending on what’s being killed. When the kernel runs out of allocatable memory, it starts terminating processes to free RAM. If the wrong process goes first—say, something core to the display stack or a driver thread—you’ll see a full freeze. You can verify this by searching the logs for “Out of memory” or “Killed process” messages.

    A failing DIMM or a bad memory map region could also behave like this, even if Windows seems fine. Linux tends to exercise RAM differently, especially with heavy caching and different scheduling. Running a memtest86+ overnight is worth doing just to eliminate that angle.

    If your live USB sits idle for hours without freezing, that strongly hints it’s a driver or kernel module loaded in your main install, not a hardware fault. If it does freeze even from live media, you’re probably looking at a low-level memory or hardware instability.

    The key next steps:

    Check system logs after reboot for OOM or GPU-related kernel messages.

    Run memtest86+ for several passes.

    Try a newer (or older) kernel to rule out regression.

    If it’s indeed a driver or OOM event, both would explain the “total lockup” behavior and why Windows remains unaffected. Linux’s memory management and driver model are simply less forgiving when something goes sideways.

  • That’s true for some types of signal boosters, especially the simple passive ones. But many building systems aren’t just passive repeaters — they use distributed antenna systems (DAS) or active repeaters that re-broadcast the signal from outside towers. From the phone’s perspective, those can sometimes look like a new connection point, even though they’re not rogue towers reading data.

    So while your point is absolutely right that a normal repeater doesn’t act as a tower or capture phone info, the way modern indoor coverage solutions are implemented can still trigger the same kinds of warnings. That’s why it can be hard to tell apart a harmless booster from something more suspicious.

    More information about DAS systems and cellular repeaters, and how they differ, if you’re interested:

    🔗 https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distributed_antenna_system

    🔗 https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_repeater

    (edit, added Wikipedia links)

  • It could also be something less alarming, like cellular repeaters inside the building. Many buildings use these to boost indoor coverage when concrete and steel block signals from outside towers, and that might explain why your phone flagged multiple connections so quickly. I’m not ruling out the possibility of a rogue tower or IMSI catcher, but it’s worth considering that the alerts could simply be repeaters being picked up by this new warning feature. Either way, it’s good that your phone is making you aware — at least now you know when unusual connections happen.

  • If you want a second attempt, this might help.

    To get USB devices working inside a container, you need to map the device into the container, which can be tricky—especially if you’re running rootless containers.

    If you’re on Linux and want to avoid complicated setups with user namespaces, groups, or messing with udev rules, the easiest way to start is by manually recreating the device node inside a folder you control (like where your config is stored) using mknod.

    For example, if your USB device is /dev/ttyUSB0:

    1. Run ls -l /dev/ttyUSB0 You should see output like: crw-rw---- 1 root dialout 188, 0 Jan 1 1970 /dev/ttyUSB0

    2. Note the major (188) and minor (0) numbers.

    3. Change directory to the folder where you want to create the "clone" device node, then run: sudo mknod -m 666 ttyUSB0 c 188 0 (Use the major/minor numbers from your device — they differ by device.) This will create a device readable and writeable by anyone on the system so perhaps consider changing the mode from 666 to 660 and/or chown the file afterwards to your user and group. As I said, this is HACKY and not a secure solution.

    You will now have a device file you can then pass into your container with the Docker/PODMAN option: --device /path/to/your/folder/ttyUSB0:/dev/ttyUSB0

    I realize this is a pretty hacky and insecure workaround—feel free to downvote or ignore if you want something cleaner. But it’s a quick way to get your USB device accessible inside the container to get started. Later on, you can look into proper handling with udev or other methods if security is important.

    If you use Windows, you are on your own unfortunately, I do not have experience with podman/docker in Windows environments.

  • or got a very good deal on TEMU?

  • Subtitles are not always simple text files in the source. They can come in various formats like SRT, WebVTT, Teletext, and VobSub—if they are present at all.

    To integrate them into WebM, you must first determine if they exist, ensure they have the correct language tags (and tag them properly if they don’t), then extract them, convert them into a format compatible with the player, and finally remux them alongside the video and audio. This process can easily fail in an automated workflow if any of these conditions are unmet or if the subtitle format is incompatible.

    Given this complexity, it’s understandable why many choose to avoid the effort rather than addressing whether WebM supports subtitles.

    I am not defending anyone, but the process of it all makes it understandable, at least for me.

  • It's always been there in the add-on, why they removed it as a base feature beats me, but I feel they are going down the "Google route", remove all that works and replace it with what you never asked for.

    Google used to hold a lot of nice services and features, including Chromecast. Why kill something that worked so well for so many people?

    Take a look at https://killedbygoogle.com/ if you have some spare time.

    What the user wants does not matter anymore, seems to be a default all over these days.. 🙄

  • If you download Good Lock (https://apps.samsung.com/appquery/appDetail.as?appId=com.samsung.android.goodlock), you can still modify this through the Home Up add-on, along with many other tweaks and settings. I've almost managed to restore it to how it was before One UI 7 using these tools.

    While what Samsung did isn't ideal, at least there's a solution for some of the changes at least.

    It's a great tool by Samsung, but not promoted as much as it should 🙂

    (edit: screenshot for reference)

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  • I know this doesn’t directly solve your issue, and it might not help much now, but I wanted to share my experience just in case it’s useful.

    When I had a similar problem after switching phones, what ended up helping was that I had 2FA enabled beforehand. In that case, after selecting the option to recover my account suddenly allowed me to receive a verification code via SMS—something that didn’t appear on the usual login screen, it was greyed out before selecting this option.

    It probably won’t work if 2FA is disabled, but maybe it’s still worth checking if any recovery options that shows up helps. There might be a choice there that helps you resolve your problem as well.

    In any case, good luck—I hope you’re able to get it sorted soon!

  • My grandad, who was a farmer, used to say that the sellers of Roundup (the weed killer from roundup.com) would drink it during sales pitches to prove it wasn’t toxic to humans. So it wasn’t just farmers making questionable decisions—some of the misinformation came from the sellers themselves.

    These days, it's labeled as unsafe to use without gloves, and the high-concentration version sold to farmers isn't even available to the general public anymore, at least where I live.

    It just gives some context on why certain practices exist—bad or misleading information played a big role in shaping them and it is or was not always just the farmers alone.

  • i use edit.com, notepad and geany btw

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  • Were you using Windows XP Home, by any chance?

    That tool was only included with Windows XP Professional, and even then, it was a command-line utility—so unless you were specifically looking for it or browsing through the %windir%\system32 directory, you probably wouldn’t have noticed it.

    The article I referenced didn’t specify exactly which 32-bit versions it came with or when it was removed—it just mentioned that it was still included in 32-bit Windows after the DOS era. I didn’t write the article myself, so I can’t really speak to its accuracy.

    Personally, I used that edline a lot back in the DOS days starting around 1985, until I switched to Notepad in Windows 95 and later to VIM when I moved to Linux after Windows 98. I never really checked for it in newer versions of Windows after that. A quick Google search confirmed it wasn’t included in XP Home, which would explain why you never saw it.

    Link to the forum I found this information about XP in: http://murc.ws/forum/hardware/general-hardware-software/49698-omg-edlin-still-lives-in-xp#post755768

    (edit: fixed a typo, added reference link)

  • i use edit.com, notepad and geany btw

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  • that is absolutely true and also 640Kb RAM should be enough for everyone 😂

    all the hours and countless reboots spent optimizing config.sys and autoexec.bat to achieve 50kb more of available memory... good memories 🙂

  • i use edit.com, notepad and geany btw

    跳过
  • edlin was my favorite for a long time 🙂

    Edlin is a line editor, and the only text editor provided with early versions of IBM PC DOS,[1] MS-DOS and OS/2.[2] Although superseded in MS-DOS 5.0 and later by the full-screen MS-DOS Editor, and by Notepad in Microsoft Windows, it continues to be included in the 32-bit versions of current Microsoft operating systems.

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edlin

    edit: link and explanation of syntax used if anyone is interested. the w (write) and q (quit) commands made it somewhat similar to VI(M). https://www.computerhope.com/edlin.htm

  • sorry, since you asked a question I just felt the need to clarify 🙂

    The ISP products you mentioned really don’t seem consumer-friendly. I understand that ISPs might benefit from setting byte limits, since they incur costs for both inbound and outbound traffic to transit providers. However, from a consumer perspective, it's a poor deal—especially since most people don’t have the tools to manage their usage effectively and can burn through their quota far too quickly, just like you pointed out.

    It all comes down to costs and earnings in the end for all products unfortunately.

  • I do not work there, just referenced the terms of conditions from their website, so you need to ask them the questions, but I think having a 1Gb connection with 30TB of seeding will eat up that pretty fast either way and also cause a mayhem of incoming connections, so it can hardly be considered private use (based on their definition)

    Again, I have no reference to the company, so all questions should be forwarded to them not me. I simply gave a possible reasoning of the ban from their terms.

    edit: added info about their definition of private use

  • just adding a note to this, not trying to steal the previous answer 🙂

    try googling your laptop model and CMOS battery for images so you know what and where to look if you want to try replacing it. Some require dismantling of almost the entire laptop to find, so researching is recommended if you are not experienced with this type of work. There are also guides and manuals online on how to change it on some models.

    Good luck! 🙂