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Joined 1 年前
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Cake day: 2024年3月30日

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  • The 38 tires should really help on the rougher paths. Maybe I’ll pick them up when I wear out my current set.

    I haven’t tried the front rack yet. Not out of dislike but because I usually pack nothing or way too much. 🤣

    Same goes with fenders. I haven’t installed them, and probably won’t. It’s too sunny where I’m from.

    The frame is made in Vietnam. The quality is alright, not amazing but certainly appropriate for the price point. No issues with it so far and better than some frames I’ve seen from the PRC.

    It can roll without a rolling rack, but not easily. Good enough for a few feet here and there. I suggest going for the rolling rack if you want to push it around train platforms and such. The saddle is padded on the underside though. It’s nice when going up stairs.

    One more thing: the drive train is exposed when folded. Watch out for dirty chains and be careful when loading it into a car. It’s easy to damage the derailleur hanger or disk brake if it tips over. Support the bike with a box or tie it down when transporting it.



  • I own a Tern Verge D9. It’s a functional and sporty folder.

    The Verge is a snappy feeling ride. Think road-bike handing. The tires are also good, but at 30mm it won’t like anything rougher than hard-pack dirt. They’re also ISO 451, not the more common 406. This size has fewer tires to choose from for a slightly nicer roll. It’s up to you to not if that’s a worthy hassle.

    FYI, the magnetic latch is terrible. You will have chipped paint on the fork. I don’t mind but you may.

    Careful folding and unfolding. The stem fold likes to bite the brake and shifting lines. That will screw up shifting.

    The matching rack they sell uses oversized tubes. You may need to replace the hooks on existing panniers. Also the racks sits closely to the pedals, so large things may have some foot overlap.

    I’m sure I have other thoughts floating around about the Verge D9. Ask anything you’d like to know about it and I’ll try answering.




  • I’m bad at following instructions. Here’s several tips. :)

    • A washing bag (e.g. Scrubba). The bag and a dry bio-compatible laundry soap weighs the same as one pair of wool socks. Using it means you can cut out underwear/shirts/socks bulk for a slightly higher camp chore load. Very useful for weight/space sensitive camping and doubles as a dry bag!
    • Prefer good clothing over sunscreen (big hat, long-sleeved shirts, buff, sun gloves, etc). It’s lower weight, less greasy, and doesn’t run out. When using sunscreen, stick form tends to be light and easy to pack.
    • Camp shoes. Always bring them. Crocks, thin flip-flops, anything but a tight shoe that you spent the last 12 hours in.
    • Avoid cotton in general, but also look for quick-dry clothing. Being wet sucks. Being wet for long periods of time can be dangerous.
    • Umbrellas are amazing. Shade when there is none and amazing at avoiding wet-out. Very useful for short trips and car camping, though I sometimes bring it backpacking even with the added weight.
    • Light (1lb / 0.5 kg) camping chair. If you’re young enough you could skip this, but my god is it worth the weight after a long day.
    • Wear warm clothing in your sleeping bag/quilt. Bag ratings are inconsistent, often assume you’re wearing clothes, and are labeled for “won’t kill you” rather than “you’ll sleep like a baby.”
    • A good sleeping pad with a solid R value. It’s as important as your top sleeping layer.
    • Dry electrolytes, especially in warmer areas, like SaltStick or Gatorlytes. Hypotonic dehydration can sneak up on you and you cannot escape it by drinking more water. This is particularly dangerous with aerobic camping, like backpacking or bikepacking. Hypotonic dehydration can be mitigated with the food you pack, but it’s a lot to plan ahead on and complicates re-hydration with caloric intake. Do not avoid high-sodium foods unless your doctor has you on a low-sodium diet (in which you should also discuss with your doctor about your outdoor activities).
    • Sleep with your electronics. Cold weather will kill your phone’s battery.
    • A portable bidet (e.g. CuloClean). There are many places where you must pack out TP (sometimes everything). Less TP means less to carry in and out. It’s also very clean feeling.
    • Similarly, WAG bags are nice. Zero trace and you don’t even need to dig a cat hole.
    • Ear plugs. Nature is loud sometimes. People in campgrounds are even louder.
    • A small towel or sponge to wash with. It’s nice to wipe off sweat and dust, even if it’s not as good as a full shower. It’s multi-purpose too. Moisture on your single-walled tent? A quick wipe and no indoor rain for you.






  • A very common mistake is to commute what you’d drive. In many cases you’d do better on paths and neighborhood streets. For example, maybe part of an unavoidable highway segment has a frontage road. Hop off onto the frontage for that segment, even if it’s technically 60 seconds slower.

    Google Maps is a decent start, though imperfect in detail (routing through a busy park on footpaths, or not routing through a park that has a good dirt path). Use street view and OpenStreetMaps to explore ways that auto routing won’t pick.

    +1 to the suggestions on starting with shorter trips. They’ll work out any kinks in your setup and give you time to become confident on your bike.




  • The bike shops around me don’t own their shop. It’s usually some rented space in a car oriented strip mall. No racks is the norm for these car-oriented places.

    One local shop solves this with automatic doors and a small inside rack if you don’t have a kickstand. And every LBS around me doesn’t mind customers rolling in with their rides.

    If there’s something we can do, it’s to show up to city councils and ask for bike loops/staples for all our downtown businesses. Then we’ll have bike parking for every local shop, including bike shops.



  • The law has significant nuance whenever someone is killed. Each state uses different terms, but it generally runs along the lines of:

    • First degree murder: intentful and planned.
    • Second degree murder: intentful but unplanned.
    • Third degree murder: not by intent but also not accidental. Fit of rage type of thing.
    • Manslaughter: no intent, no rage, often negligence, and similar regrettable deaths.

    Each one carries a progressively lighter punishment. You can be found guilty of manslaughter and get off with a fine, probation, or even time-served. The courts will adjust punishment according to each crime’s circumstances.

    What ticks this community off is a special type of murder: Vehicular Manslaughter. It has all the hallmarks of regular manslaughter, except it’s much harder to prosecute and often with zero consequences. It’s, quite literally, a whole different section of law to reduce the consequences of driving. The exception-to-the-exception is intent! If someone intentionally kills with a gun or a vehicle, then they get charged first or second degree murder. But the consequences are different if someone with a gun negligibly kills (it does happen) and a driver negligibly kills. It’s not justice when a boss who didn’t maintain a ladder which killed his painter faces more consequences than the driver who didn’t maintain their brakes and ran over a child.


  • The alternative to resident parking isn’t street parking but to provide residential parking as determined by the developer and purchaser. You’re not going to sell a condo if there’s no parking and prospective buyers need to drive. Likewise you’ll make better sales if you sell a condo without parking for a lower price to people who don’t/can’t drive. Let your local developers work with their civil engineers to figure out the best bang-per-buck of housing to parking spot ratio with each property they work on. I’m sure there would be fewer spots built near transit and downtown but fully loaded with parking on the edge of town; a nuance often missed in one-size-fits-all regulations.

    Also the alternative to private parking is not necessarily street parking. You can:

    • Lease a local parking space (a developer builds parking but it’s not included with an apartment/condo/town home purchase).
    • Lease a spot in a public parking lot.
    • Lease a neighbor’s parking spot.
    • Lease car time on a car share.

    Street parking shouldn’t be free anyway. Free parking limits developments from building parking! Why would they build an expensive spot when there’s plenty of “free” parking instead. Even post-sale you’ll see the effect of free street parking. Look at your neighbor’s garage. Do they park their car in there or do they use it for storage and instead park on the street? Free street parking is free real-estate.

    The problem of “not enough street parking” can be solved by internalizing the price of parking. For example, San Francisco adjusts meters up and down until spots are between 60% to 80% filled. Price adjustment also signals the true cost of driving to the driver of the car rather than spreading their choice’s cost across everyone in the city/county/state.

    Street parking also takes up space that could be used for protected bike lanes.

    I agree! I’d rather street parking not exist. See the thread on Japan’s zero street parking strategy for their solution to parking (spoiler: it doesn’t include parking minimums).

    However, a small side note. You don’t necessarily need protected bike lanes if your streets are slow enough, which is often a desirable feature of residential neighborhoods. The oft-cited Netherlander’s civil engineering calls them “fietsstraat” (cycle street). San Francisco calls them slow streets.