

Latest Github commits are within the past hour… Why do you think that it’s dead?
Latest Github commits are within the past hour… Why do you think that it’s dead?
I have self-hosted both, although admittedly Gitlab was quite a few years ago. Forgejo is faster and lighter, GitLab is slow and huge. Unless you know you need a very specific GitLab feature, I’d go Forgejo all day.
I bought the whole Steam deck, I’m gonna use the whole Steam Deck!
Doesn’t seem very private to me😧
Spoiler: Roku doesn’t either. Immich + a RaspberryPi or other SBC is the way to go…
It’s just an OpenWebUI instance? What have you added to/changed about it?
Just following your above link, you could pre-convert your comics using this: https://framagit.org/nicooo/kumiko
To me it looks like tuning your pressure advance might help.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/pressure_linear_advance/introduction.html
I have an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra. I hate that it’s proprietary, but in the resin printing world the only non-proprietary option is Prusa, and it was just too small and expensive to justify. My Elegoo doesnt get network connectivity (so no risk of unapproved updates), and I use prusa slicer to slice and then uvtools to convert to the “encrypted” chitubox format. Since the printer isn’t allowed to update, I’m not worried about ever being forced into using chitubox.
I don’t really care about network connectivity for it; the built in camera is useless for me. I just have a rpi zero with a webcam on it for monitoring, and I also have an IOT switch controlled by that pi via a lan-only http server with a toggle button to control its power. If I see a print is failing via the webcam, I just cut power to the whole printer to stop it remotely. This works even outside my LAN via VPN.
I do still have to start prints the old fashioned way using a usb stick. This doesn’t bug me much, since I have to go check on resin levels, make sure there’s no crap in the tank, etc before starting a print anyways. I have a short usb extender cable to avoid wearing out the usb port on the printer itself as well. I have mucked about with using the rpi as a dummy usb drive where I can just upload files to the rpi and then the printer reads off of it via the usb port, but I couldn’t get it working :/
I’m happy enough with the printer itself - it’s fast, reliable (so far) and produces some high quality prints. The price was very reasonable at the time (iirc $450 for the printer, $250 for wash and cure station), all things considered. If someone ever produced a mainboard that supported an open-source firmware for it, I would buy and install it in a heartbeat.
I’m assuming there was no ID or contact info with it, since you probably wouldn’t be asking if there was.
Hypothetically, if you were to give it to the police, how would the police know that who the rightful owner is? If I walk into a police station right now and say I lost $200, do you think they would hand over $200 to me? No, I have no way of proving thats my money, and they wouldn’t believe me for a second.
Keep it. Lord knows everyone could probably use an extra few hundred bucks these days…
It doesnt look too hard to build from source if you want to go that route… You could just make a debug apk and install it with ADB.
That’s the size I have, so thanks a ton!
Nice! Just a tip, it would be helpful to mention the size of the pegboard, such as 1" distance with 1/4" holes. There are a few different sizes of pegboard.
Oh 3d printer resin is absolutely not UV resistant - resin printers use UV light to solidify the resin at each layer, and exposing a print to too much UV light after printing can cause UV burn, similar to a thermoplastic.
Coating the print in a UV resist clear coat should prevent UV light from reaching the print itself, and preventing the burn; think of it as sunscreen for your print 😉
Oh, another thought - you could use a UV blocking clear coat such as this on your print. I still would avoid PLA though, since it might get hot in the sun. It would be important to get a complete coat with that spray, even between layer lines. You might want to think about using a clear resin if you have access to a resin printer, since it would have a much smoother finish before being coated.
Hmmm, I would usually go for ASA for anything outside, but searching around for transparent ASA comes up empty… I guess maybe transparent ASA isn’t a thing? Too bad, since you could smooth it with acetone to make it even lower opacity. You could also look at Polycarbonate and PETG, which I know can be made transparent, but those might yellow a bit after a few years.
I’m interested in other people’s thoughts. Definitely a good question!
I was on an old repurposed desktop with 16gb ram and a i7 6700k at the time.
I haven’t felt that I’ve been missing any features from Gitlab. I do use Woodpecker-CI for runners because Forgejo action’s weren’t working for Docker builds, but I think the Forgejo actions have come a long way since I made that decision; I’ll have to try them out again one of these days.
I tried hosting Gitlab for a while, but configuration and upgrades were difficult, and your really have to stay on top of updates due to vulnerabilities. It also used a lot of resources and wasn’t super responsive.
I moved to Forgejo (a hard fork of Gitea), and haven’t looked back; I cant recommend it enough. It’s fast, doesn’t take a lot of resources, actively developed, and has all the features I need.
Codeberg is a public instance of Forgejo if you want to try it out first.
Regardless of whether you are using a block or an allow list, you have to maintain the list…
I’m not sure what your point is; if you want to devote your time, effort, and potential liabilities to it, that’s up to you. I just figured I would share a perspective on why I didn’t want to do that.
I appreciate all the hard work done by instance hosts; using individual Lemmy instances are a privelege, not a right. I would fully understand and not be upset if my home instance were to shut down at a moments notice.
They have their place. If you only do multicolor prints rarely, but change materials between prints a lot, that’s where they excel.
I have both an MMU (Prusa MK3S + MMU 2) and a toolchanger (very custom Voron 2.4 with Tapchanger), and the MMU gets used plenty to swap filament between prints. I look at my toolchanger as being for color prints, and I usually keep 6 colors of PETG on it. My MMU gets used more as the functional printer with all the engineering filaments on it like TPU, PC, ABS, PA. I rarely have to change filament rolls with this setup.
I am also looking at building one of these Swapper3Ds, which should prevent all the waste from printing multiple colors with the MMU.