Why not both

Not one in particular, just the first thing that came to mind since I use it a lot on linux. I even use NewPipe on android, didn’t even remember it had an option to download

yt-dlp inside termux?

Baikal works wonders

Nah 85/90 degrees is perfect for the job. Much better and more uniform than a heatgun, let alone a hairdryer

Is that a motorola moto z2 play? I owned that phone and I used to disassemble it just like this!

Edit: saw in another comment that it’s a z4. The camera did look strange for a z2 at a second glance

I second this

Also dumbest idea, have you tried a brand new spool of PLA? Just to exclude an incredibly wet filament. Because that can cause all sorts of problems

Hello, I suggested heat creep in your last post, which didn’t end up being the issue. I don’t remember if anyone suggested it, but have you tried checking the bowden assembly, on the motor side? Whether the stepper works, or the gears wore down (I’m pointing towards this), or there are clogs somewhere in the mechanism, even some dust that accumulated where it shouldn’t had. Or did you change settings like the current limit on the steppers? If that’s controlled with a potentiometer on the main board, maybe it got turned down for some reason (if so, I’d try to understand why’s that). I don’t know how Klipper handles motor drivers where current limits are controlled in software, I know that Marlin has a dedicated submenu in the Configuration>Advanced Configuration. If you reflashed the firmware, maybe the settings where in the eeprom and did not get transfered over or got overwritten in the flashing process.

I remembered that on a couple different printers I had the same problem as you, and it came down to damaged/untightened nozzles (which you excluded already) or wore down gears or, on the printer I’m working on right now, too low current limits which made the stepper skip steps somewhat randomly

That’s exactly how I wpuld test heat creep. Maybe that’s not it

Since you’ve already excluded a damaged nozzle and other parts, I’m gonna suggest heatcreep.

Maybe the extruder fan broke, so heat creeping up the extruder and melting the filament before it should?

Nekogram X?

Ah, good old PlarformIO

Also depending on the architecture on the computer, this might be the only possible solution. I have a samsung m2020 series printer connected to a Pi to share it on the local network. Samsung Unified Driver does not work on armhf as it is only compiled for x86/x64, but splix can be compiled on armhf and it actually supports my printer

Others are saying to switch to the specific driver for your printer. If you do not want to go proprietary you could try and see if your printer is supported by the splix driver

What did you do to keep the card cool?

Poorly. Had 3d printer a fan duct and ducted a fan to the back of the case, to push-pull air. Those cards are made to work in server racks, with really high pressure and high speed fans, not really for a desktop. I have seen people on reddit mounting a modified 3070ti cooler on the tesla, but I had not had a chanve to try that.

And was it loud?

Yes, depending on the fans used. But high speed fans are generally loud. Also lots of vibrations, but that qas mostly fault of my incredibly sketchy setup

I used to do this with a nvidia tesla m40 and a radeon hd6850. Used the tesla for rendering amd encoding, the radeon for display output. I just followed the arch wiki pages related to nvidia optimus laptops and PRIME offloading. It worked but was a bit junk, in some other tests I did, when the radeon was used to render the DE, I had a much more fluid experience, offloading the rendering seems to lead to some micro stutters every now and then that make it a not so fluid experience. But ymmv I guess. Also I haven’t had any luck with two separate nvidia cards, but that was probably due to driver version mismatch between the two cards

Ok, thanks

What’s up with the in-app tracking? Is it just related to likes/dislikes?

S4