Birthright citizenship is by no means the standard. It’s not rare, but most of the world does not use it. Most of them are in the Americas, but that whole thing gets complicated.
Most countries grant citizenship to the children of their citizens. IOW, the child inherits citizenship from its parents. If nothing else, the mother is going to be known by nature of the birth, and the child would have at least her citizenship.
(Exceptions exist, but they exist for Jus Soli as well)
I have no firsthand knowledge of the subject, but I would assume they get inserted at the factory as part of QA. How else would they make sure everything works as expected?
Generally speaking, it’s the amps that you need to be concerned about. That’s what requires thicker cables, because amps generate heat (in the form of transmission losses). Higher voltage can actually reduce this, since W=V*A. That’s how the latest USB-PD can deliver so much power, by increasing the voltage. It’s also why EV fast chargers work faster on 800v batteries. The cables are limited by amperage.
However, you are correct that the materials would need to be able to handle the higher voltage. If the resistance is too low, it could create arcing, which is really bad.
A real, live human attorney had to sign off on this. Or fraudulently claim to be one.
Judges have very little patience for either scenario. I suspect there will be more coming on this.
Not as much about the car as it does the market. For a variety of reasons, very few people are considering a used EV. Which is a shame, because there are some incredible deals to be had for any potential buyers.
The problem with both of those examples is that’s where it landed eventually. You’re ignoring all of the time that Kia ignored/denied the issue, then the half-assed answers done with only a quarter-ass (The Club, distributed through an unpredictable patchwork of local PDs), and only after several years finally fixed it. Or at least that’s what they claim.
BTW, I don’t think they installed physical immobilizers, at least not on all models. It was some sort of software update, but I don’t have the details on how it could even work. But at least it came with The Club direct from Kia/the dealer.
(Not OP)
Hyundai/Kia certainly have some selling points, and I would seriously consider the Ioniq for my next car. But we shouldn’t pretend that they’re beyond reproach. The whole theft problem came from years of them cutting corners. Their response to it showed a level of corporate incompetence that borders on malice. And the cherry on top, the ICCU response mirrors the previous incompetence. From what I’ve seen, the infotainment software is buggy and unintuitive.
They still offer a good value for the money, but you may pay for that with time/frustration. Like everything else, we should evaluate it honestly.
Where are you located where you currently have CCS2 (primarily Europe, Australia/NZ, parts of Asia), but new models have NACS (North America)?
Even worse, it suggests that whatever the AI used as training data also shows retaliation. Since it’s internal, there’s a good chance they just showed that they illegally retaliate.
I wouldn’t worry about the battery. Any potential harm comes in before it gets to the battery, and there’s likely a DC-DC converter before that anyway.
The first thing to validate is the listed specs. If your laptop expects 12v (usually listed on a sticker on the device), don’t connect a 19v brick. Same for center-positive/center-negative. USB-C bypasses all of that, since it negotiates a matching spec before charging.
The second thing is how well it adheres to the specs it lists. This isn’t something that you can really test yourself. It would require a lot of specialized equipment and skills, since the answer can change in different circumstances. It might work fine for a while, but eventually deliver rich, chunky volts. This will (likely) fry the motherboard, and maybe more than that. USB-C does NOT bypass this. Some of the worst chargers on the market are USB-C.
The only realistic way to avoid the second is to get a quality charger from a trustworthy source. Many will only recommend OEM, but you also have to be careful about counterfeits on eBay or scAmazon. You can use aftermarket, but only if it’s a trustworthy brand like Anker.
As much as I love the idea, I’m sure their accountants would find a way around it. That’s largely what trust funds are for today.
I’m pretty sure they’d just as happily sell you a pizza with veggies on it instead.
Entrapment has a very specific definition, and this ain’t it.
It might still be an illegal speed limit change, but that’s going to depend on an awful lot of details. It’s certainly bad design, but the locals probably like it for the money it brings in.
She probably used it earlier, but not necessarily. She might not have a good place to set her phone in her car.
She might have used it earlier, at a time where it was legal. For instance, setting navigation or music before driving. Or (depending on local laws) while stopped at a light.
It certainly seems like your GPU is causing a crash, but it’s just as likely (maybe even moreso) that the PSU is behind that.
You can look into things like Furmark, MATS and MODS, etc to drill down further. Northwest Repair has plenty of examples on his YT channel.
Is this a new issue, or has it always been the case with this hardware combo?
If it were me, I’d just get a new (and good) PSU from somewhere with a good return policy. If that doesn’t fix it, return the PSU for a GPU. Other people will link to the calculators, and be sure to get a good model from a good brand. Don’t cheap out or ignore the subtle details. A bad PSU will pay you back with all sorts of weird, intermittent stability issues.
Cue Mr Burns…
The answer really depends on your needs and use cases, as well as your risk profile.
The simplest option is to schedule regular backups to a USB (preferably rotating drives, following the 3-2-1 rule). If “shit happens”, you would restore that backup using the same software. You may have difficulties restoring to different hardware. Acronis and Macrium are simple solutions here, or Clonezilla if you prefer free or offline backups.
If you want a way to boot to a diagnostic tool, and recover from there, there are countless options. From a live Linux distro, UBCD, WinRE, Media Creation Tool, the options abound. You may or may not be able to recover any data, or your existing system. It really depends on your definition of “shit happens”, and what you need it to do.
I suspect that your real goal is to move your existing Windows install (and all associated data) to a USB drive, and boot from that. Windows to Go was exactly that, but was discontinued. There are some hobby projects to do the same. This is (usually) a really bad idea. USB drives are much slower and less reliable, and create extra points of failure. It also keeps almost all of the other risks of the internal drive. You’re better off using option #1 above.
A common trick is to order it “Thai spicy”. Obviously YMMV.
Not OP, but I think they’re trying to make a (strained) point about companies replacing highly paid professionals with amateurs using technology. There’s also a side note of said technology being just as good, if not better than a skilled and experienced craftsman.
Of course, I could be wrong. The analogy has many flaws, and I’m making a lot of assumptions.
I assume that’s the “weight” of the paper, I.e. how thick the pages are.