FYI, for those of you who happen to have been born in the mid 1960s… the measles vaccine you received may have been relatively useless, so you might out to either get your antibodies tested or just get a new mmr vaccine now…
I’m pretty sure Unraid relies purely on the drive serial to identify its position in the array (or cache). From docs.unraid.net:
Unraid identifies drives based on their serial numbers and sizes, not by the specific SATA ports they are connected to. This allows for flexibility in managing drives, as you can switch them between ports without affecting their assignments in the system.
Airsonic (fork of Subsonic) has worked well for me for a few years. Used Subsonic for many years prior. I mainly use play:Sub on IOS for playback, local/offline caching, etc.
Fyi, i -did- dissasemble the drive, remove the magnets from the head assembly, and scratched tf out of both sides of the platters. :)
Also, re the price, with the discount i paid the same for the drive i ordered that i paid for the same size/model last BF, although this one had twice the cache. :) :)
There are scripts to do this type thing on Unraid, possibly adaptable to other platforms/scenarios. Search for “unraid userscript move watched to array”.
There are even ones that will move an entire season or show over to your “fast” drive whenever you start watching a show.
I don’t have anything so complex in use currently; i just have it set to keep new stuff on the fast drives for 60 days, then shuffle it off to hdds.
As far as why ssd over hdd? Prob more of a power issue than a speed issue. Depending on how your storage is setup, it can save a bit if juice not having to spin up an array of hdds.
WD has a recycling deal where you can get 15% off your total purchase, once per quarter, by sending in any drive, working or not, to their recycling partner. I just did this with an old Maxtor 60gb 3.5” PATA drive. The shipping is free and it gets processed really quickly (e.g. it was actually delivered today and i already received -and-used- the discount code.
Note that theyre pretty clear/strict about no stacking of codes/discounts.
This. Had a mini since they were released and it’s been a low maintenance workhorse. Prusa adding input shaping, etc. via firmware was just icing on the cake.
Not aluminum, but galvanized steel, so should be ok in moderately wet environment. Plus, it’s cheaper than the 1/8” aluminum angle at HD. You could prob get 2 strips from each, or they may even have longer lengths for cheaper.
You’d just have to make sure you’ve got 1.25” clearance (e.g. don’t screw it in right above a drawer).
Of course, one of the things with butcher block is that it’s gonna expand and contract with humidity, so you can’t completely restrict it. But I think that if you use screws that have diameters that are smaller than the pre-drilled holes on that angle, even when they’re screwed in tightly, they’ll have adequate lateral movement.
Disclaimer - I’m not a “carpenter” by any means, but I do nearly all of my own home repairs, and the above is what I’d prob try if faced with your problem.
If bowing of the entire counter is forcing the center apart, -maybe- you could stop it (or possibly correct it somewhat) by screwing in strips of some non-warping material (wood maybe, metal might be better, like beefy aluminum angle) at intervals underneath the counter. Orient them perpendicular to the direction of the butcher block strips. Put screws in every few inches.
It was fear of this warpage happening that when I redid our kitchen with butcher block counters, I chose a drop-in/overmount apron front stainless sink. Has like a 3” wide lip all around on top of the counter, and is thin enough (roughly 1/16”) that once I put a bead of silicon at the edge, I can still easily rake crap off the counter right into the sink. Faucet, etc is all mounted on the sink, so less water exposure. About the worse thing so far has been some surface crud on the wood between the back lip and the wall.
FYI, for those of you who happen to have been born in the mid 1960s… the measles vaccine you received may have been relatively useless, so you might out to either get your antibodies tested or just get a new mmr vaccine now…
https://www.health.harvard.edu/diseases-and-conditions/some-adults-may-need-a-measles-booster-shot-who-should-get-one-and-why