What about a pre-extruder or a set (or pultruder?) that brings it to just below the glass transition temp, but still at the original filament size? Water boils off, plastic is left!
You “just” need a longer distance inside the drying chamber. This could be achieved by coiling up the space where the filament travels through and guide hot and dry air through that space, ideally from the outlet towards the inlet. That air could maybe be pulled from the hotend cooler.
Sorry, I completely didn’t read all of your comment. You’re right about resistance but then again the filament won’t need to touch the enclosing coil at a large surface. In the usual bowden tubes, you have a lot of contact surface between tube and filament but this would not need to be the case in the drying coil. In the end it would all depend on the application. I’m not interested in very high speed printing (yet) because my machines are all pretty slow :).
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Wonder if you could use some sort of buffer system to extend the time in the dryer
What about a pre-extruder or a set (or pultruder?) that brings it to just below the glass transition temp, but still at the original filament size? Water boils off, plastic is left!
You “just” need a longer distance inside the drying chamber. This could be achieved by coiling up the space where the filament travels through and guide hot and dry air through that space, ideally from the outlet towards the inlet. That air could maybe be pulled from the hotend cooler.
deleted by creator
Sorry, I completely didn’t read all of your comment. You’re right about resistance but then again the filament won’t need to touch the enclosing coil at a large surface. In the usual bowden tubes, you have a lot of contact surface between tube and filament but this would not need to be the case in the drying coil. In the end it would all depend on the application. I’m not interested in very high speed printing (yet) because my machines are all pretty slow :).