I'm just this guy, you know?
You know, I never think of those things when it matters.
Good call, I'll check it out!
Now that I've slept on it, I realize there's no reason I couldn't bodge a mini relay like a Sonoff ZBMINI together with a rocker style, mains rated mini switch to mount in a project box and put inline on the lamp cord.
It's still less dodgy than some of the rotary inline switches I've replaced.
Sends in the clear, no error checking, the
nccommand is promiscuous while its bound to the port. No crypto or compression to slow you down. Just a raw pipe of bytesIts a bad idea, part of the forbidden codex known only to old, irreverent graybeards who know better but don't care anymore. There are better ways that are both more reliable and better practice.
You might want to look into using passwordless SSH keys within your script (see
ssh -i) which isn't the most secure.practice on multiuser systems, but is Okayish in Devops and backups. Add other factors like aggressive allowed hosts settings on the receiver, and rotate the keys regularly.You can pipe tar through it too.
Receiver:
nc -lp 12345 | tar xf -Sender:tar cf - . | nc 192.168.0.123 12345Also
ddif you're moricated to image over the network.I mean, he asked....
Do you think she'll sue to have this one taken down too, inadvertently raising awareness of the increasing rate of children are born with special needs?
I have several chinese knockoff WROVER kits that boot to the bootloader when initially powered on. I need to press the BOOT button to get them to load the code in firmware. I was able to bypass this behavior by bridging pin 0 to VCC with a 100uF capacitor. There might also be a software setting, but I haven't really poked at it.
The Freenove branded one doesn't do this, though. It boots straight to the firmware.
Not sure if the WROOM kits have the same behavior, but try bumping your BOOT button and see if that wakes up.
But how does it taste?
No, no. I do sometimes have to contend with race conditions and reentrant triggers. I never considered looking into whether it was possible to change the execution mode, even if I did read that documentation without understanding what it meant.
Thanks for the pointer back to it. Now I grok it.
Interference and crosstalk: Both 24GHz and 60FHz mods are tolerant of other emitters in their field of view, so you could pair two of them in the outside corner of your ell, looking towards the ends and a third at the long end of the ell looking back towards the corner and they ought not to interfere. Another possible configuration would be three ceiling mounted emitters looking down, overlapping the fields of view for full coverage of the floor area. A 60° field of view at 2.8m gives you roughly a 5m radius of detection on the floor.
Seeing through walls: "Thin walls" attenuate the signal, but allow enough penetration to detect people through cover. The radar can penetrate thin plastic housings, plexiglass, cloth, drywall, wood paneling, and thin plaster & lath. It cannot penetrate glass, stone, or metal. Same goes for floors. My radar module will detect people in the unfinished room below my home office through the hardwood floor if I angle it down far enough.
Fast detection: I found that while the radar was responsive even to small movement nearly instantly, it takes up to 2 or 3 seconds to acquire and classify a target as a person. Once t locks on, it pretty reliably tracks the person for as long as they are in view. In practice, a person walking into the edge of the field of view at a normal walking pace could cover half the field before they are detected as present. It "feels" a bit slow compared to PIR detection which is sub-second in most cases, but generates a lot of false positives. The technique I am refining is to position the the radar to detect a person entering a room by angling the radar field of view to "lead lead target" and use the PIR to determine the target has moved into a zone where I want action to take place. In essence, I want the lights to trip on when the radar detects human presence AND the PIR sees a hot blob. Then I kick on the light and wait for the human presence detection to go back to unoccupied for 5 minutes before turning off the light. I might also experiment to see if ultrasonic detection is any more reliable than IR, since it wouldn't be fooled by warm/cold draughts, or by sudden changes in light as from dappled shade or clouds & sun. My concern is I have pets and wouldn't want to stress them with sound I can't hear, but maybe they can. Need to research it more.
Its been fun playing with this stuff, but I might note that at this point you can just buy an open platform (as in open source) esphome/HA compatible multisensor presence detector made by the guy who does the Everything Smart Home channel on YouTube. He posted a couple videos talking about it (links below). For me, this is just messing around with something I always wanted to play with, but I'll probably just buy a kit when I want to hang something functional on a ceiling or wall.
Definitely check out the videos I linked. They're excellent for helping to understand the pros and cons of this tech in real-world smart home applications.
Everything Smart Home - Building my own smart ho e oresense sensor
I looked further into my assertion that 24GHz radar was being phased out, since something was bothering me about it. It seems 24 GHz Ultra Wide Band (UWB) applications are no longer approved, but 24GHz Industrial, Scientific & Medical (ISM) applications are still approved. Home use of 24GHz radar would be considered ISM, so there is probably no restriction on its use.
Sorry for any confusion...
I've been messing around with the MR60FDA1 60GHz mmWave detector in esphome and Home Assistant. Unfortunately it has the same 6m range and 60° field of view you're looking to get around.
I will say, though, that within range the sensor is quite responsive, and detects static presents quite well. The high frequency gives it sufficient resolution to detect micro movements like fidgeting, looking around or even breathing. My module has fall detection on board, purportedly to sense if a detected person is standing or laying down. Another version supposedly can detect respiration and heartbeet within a couple of meters.
The good thing about 60Ghz is they tend not to interfere with each other, so several units could be arranged with overlapping fields of view.
I'm pairing mine with a PIR module for rapid detection, and to help eliminate false positives on radar hits since radar can see through walls, and doesn't necessarily expose the distance to the target in esphome.
The 24GHz models have a longer range up to 12m and may have 360° fields of view, but have lower resolution and ranging for micro motions. In the US, they are being phased out for potential interference with aviation though I can't speak for other countries.
Andreas Speiss posted a good video on YouTube that covered a bunch of different models (link below) that I thought was informative. It will.lead you to some other similar content that might help you to assess your needs and match a product to your application.
Andreas Speiss - Radar Sensors from $3 to over $100: Which is Best?https://youtube.com/watch?v=s-GzUTyIH9c
Aha! THAT'S what that does. Thank YOU too!
You might be able to do something with local Zigbee2mqtt or Zwave2mqtt proxies at the cabin, and tie those areas back into the main instance over Wirguard or Zerotier, but you'd need a pretty reliable internet service at the cabin to do so.
I don't use those proxies myself since ai just use the one local hub, bit it should be possible. Maybe someone with more experience with those proxies could chime in?
Hey, this is pretty cool! I need to study this, I'm trying to get the idea of blueprints into my head.
You should be able to handle this in HA within a single automation:
Trigger: Room is occupied (occupancy > 0)Condition: Light offAction:
- Call service: Turn Light On
- Wait for Trigger: Room is clear for 5 minutes (occupancy < 1)
- Call service: Turn Light Off
If you are basing your occupancy on more than one sensor state, you could build a helper to combine the states into a single sensor value, which itself might need a Hysteresis helper.
I've started moving some of my own automations over to this method. It works pretty well, but it is susceptible to being interrupted by restarts or reboots. You may need to build in additional logic to reset things to a known state on startup.
Oh, I never said they weren't absolute prats about invading user space with advertising their bullshit. The Lens fiasco, Snaps, the popup warnings in
aptbreaking scripts, and the lack of UI toggles to easily disable those nag messages are all reasons I run other distros. There's a big Mint colored button to turn on the Ubuntu experience without the nagging.You have other choices that do no not shove that bullshit in your face. Canonical is gonna canonical. Nobody said you have to play their game.
My point was they are not withholding anything community-based from anyone. They are entitled to charge for their original work, even they are pushy about it. They even abide by the license and distribute it the changes when complete, but they're not gonna just do it for giggles.
...again.