I'm just this guy, you know?
- JumpDeleted
Permanently Deleted
Ah! There it is! Thank you.
Still a bit broken on mobile, but they'll catch it up.
How do you edit or delete categories once you've created them?
To be sure, I'm using the companion mobile app and don't see an obvious Categories editor. I haven't explored the desktop UI fully for this question yet.
I'm betting that what really happened is that they screwed up their planning, possibly because some chunk of the potential buying population doesn't want a Tesla anymore.
Like an X-factor, would you say?
Not many 3rd party shops are qualified to work on Teslas, so repairs are generally performed at the dealers who are on balance more expensive. You've been lucky so far to have warranty coverage, but what would your out-of-pocket costs have looked like if you had to cover to cost of those repairs yourself?
How long do you intend to own and drive your Tesla, and what do you anticipate future maintenance and repair bills to look like?
Traditional internal combustion vehicles burn fuel and require regular maintenance that electrics don't. They also suffer mechanical wear & tear, and need regular maintenance, oli changes, fuel, etc. Back of the envelope math: over 100,000 miles, or say 10 years of light to average driving, you are apt to have 330 fuel fill-ups at $55 per, maybe 30 oil changes at $65 per, 5 sets of brakes at $225 per, maybe an odd $3000 in other wear & tear maintenance or a major repair. Call it $20-25k in over 10 years for cost of ownership. If you drive more, you're apt to see those costs go up. (eta: Not accountig for things like taxes, insurance, registration fees, and other wear elements like wipers, tires, and the like as they're probably a wash between IC and EV fleets)
I'm not nearly as familiar with ownership costs of a Tesla, but I do understand that there are probably fewer maintenance expensss because there are fewer moving parts to wear. The power plant and braking systems are electrical and suffer less mechanical wear, fueling costs are shifted to electric costs which are obscured by other supply costs and usage, and the fleet is young enough that most major repairs are still under warranty.
But, when do those warranties expire, and what do you the consumer do with the vehicle after that? Is there an aftermarket? A buyback or trade-in market? If you plan to "drive it into the ground," then how many miles can you expect to get out of your Tesla before you have to buy a new car? Will an extended warranty be an option?
At that point, what does an out-of-warranty battery replacement look like? I've heard it can be between $4000 and $10000, a significant portion of the
costvalue of the vehicle. How about a dead touchscreen? That's a major component for the vehicle. What about the maintenance fees for software upgrades for those systems? (eta: or ongoing software support?)I may have made your argument for you, but I also hope I've demonstrated that potentially significant ownership costs may simply have shifted later into the life cycle. You may still have to bear them if you can't offload the vehicle.
What I hope isn't the answer is that these cars are all destined for scrap after their first owner. I buy my vehicles to drive for a long time and plan to offload through private sale or for parts. I don't know that I'll have that same luxury with Teslas, let alone the current fleet of EVs and HEVs.
edits: typos, mostly
I'm not buying one primarily because they are expensive to repair, have terrible in-cabin controls and ergnomics that I feel make them mile-for-mile more dangerous to drive than a traditional control layout, and have a lot of "fine print" terms & conditions that make a purchase unpalatable for me. It's a shame really because they're quite innovative vehicles otherwise, and they are fun to drive.
Touch controls and feature subscriptions are non-starters for me in any vehicle though. Add in that Musk is their CEO and forget it.
Musk is a self-correcting issue though. The board will oust him once the share price drops enough. If it can happen at Boeing, it can happen here too.
No joke. I used to brew my own, and my recipe for a Spring Maibock had a RIDICULOUS grain bill. You could easily spend a week living off a half liter once a day on that brew. It'd put you straight to bed, but that's sort of the point of a Lenten fast.
Yeah, I suppose that's one read if you completely disregard the rather startling drift in US policy in Israel from October 2023 to now. We abstained from a UNSC veto on a ceasefire. SoS Blinkin is going more aggressively at Netanyahu than I've ever seen a US official go at ah Israeli PM in my lifetime ("cohesive plan" quote), Biden called out Bibi in his SOTU when there are DIRE domestic issues at hand.
Look, I'm not saying we're clean here, and aren't complicit. We're walking a line of "being supportive" and bringing unorecedented diplomatic pressure on Israel to knock it off. Things are happening "really fast" on the scale of decades old policy, and that means something. Keeping hold on those ties means (a) yes, we're complicit in the eyes of history, but (b) we are using those ties to try to minimize further bloodshed.
It's slow. Its maddening. It's also real politics on an international scale which, I am sorry, marginalizes death. I'm not OK with that and I'm struggling to make sense of it myself, but among other likely outcomes it's probably the best play the US can make given the alternatives.
People with a lot more information than me are making the decisions. I'm trying to trust that.
If the US left them, even for a brief period like a year, they'd be forced to actually pursue peace.
No. It just leaves a geopolitical power vacuum into which another opportunistic state would step in and supply them with some equally deadly munitions and financial guarantees. Nothing would change for the Israelis or the Palestinians.
Also, we probably stationed some Really Massive Ordinance over there that we can't just evacuate on a Hercules or a Galaxy or 10. Its not like the US will just walk away from that. (Yes, like we did Afghanistan. Twice.)
Oh stop.
Look, the two frontrunners for president were born in the 50s. For them the 1967 war on Israel is living memory, with Israel only having been formed as a state in 1948. For most of their lives, Israel has been a priority in US foreign politics.
For most of what I imagine is much of your own life, Israel has been aggressively expanding at the expense of the Palestinians. Mine too.
Without condoning it, our elder statesmen and stateswomen understand the middle east differently, and are looking for distinctly different outcomes. That ship doesn't turn on a dime, but it's fucking turning.
People are dying and its maddening. I also assure you that nothing the US does either way will appreciably change anything over there. That conflict is baked into the very earth itself. Does that justify the arms deals? No. Do I have a point? Probably also no. But that's how it is and it sucks.
You get used to it, I guess. That also sucks.
By the math you are correct. I blew out some switches that were 10A, 120VAC peak, but somehow only rated for 600W continuous, resistive. Amazon doesn't sell them anymore, but it would be printed on the housing if that's the case. That's why I was saying to look.
My switches might have been the "no neutral" variety, though those are a special kind of janky.
Edit: derp, I didn't read all the words. Yes, you're overdrawing your smart plug with inrush current fron a large inductive load. Look for a smart plug rated for at least 20A. It'll be safe enough to use on a 15A circuit because the breaker will be the limiting factor instead if the plug.
Check the amperage and wattage rating on that plug. Heavily inductive and some resistive loads can draw a large "inrush" current during startup that can briefly exceed the capacity of some smart receptacles. Chances are it's rated for 10A resistive load, and a washer (which is an inductive loadl can briefly exceed that.For example: halogen lights. A halogen light tube like you'd use in floodlights or those old floor-standing torchiere are tyoically rated fo 150 to 300W. That rating is derived from the bulb's filament when it is up to ita operating temperature, which is something like 1000°C or more. A hot filament has a higher resistance than that same filament when it's cold, so that 300W element might briefly draw over 600W instantaneous load while it's coming up to temperature, briefly drawing potentially more than 15A at 120V. It doesn't pop your breaker because they have a sort of time delay that can accommodate these brief, large inrush currents. Electric motors in pumps and drives have a similar effect, but that's more from their inductance/capacitance as they spin up, rather than a change in their resistance. Their "apparent resistance" is actually AC inductance, which can draw significantly more amperage when the motor is not spinning at its designed operating speed. Same thing for compressors like in air conditioners, fridges and ice makers.
Most ZigBee smart switches and receptacles are rated for 10A at 120V, or total 600W continuous load. They're designed to handle smaller inrush currents from loads like incandescent bulbs, LEDs, and small electrics. They're generally not rated for things like halogen bulbs or large motors.
Washing machines are an interesting case because they employ several motors to drive the agitator (or drum), the spin cycle and the drain pump. They have a highly dynamic cureeebt draw that depends on both startup inrush, but also on the torque demanded for varying cycles. A heavy load if jeans or towels can draw significantly more power to agitate and spin dry than a lught load of bed linens or delicates.
I betyour smart plug is rated for 600W, and probably says not to use on halogen bulbs. (Most do.) If so, its also not going to be suitable for your washer for substantially the same reason: peak draw exceeds its capacity.For higher draw applications, you'll need to look for a 20A or 30A rated smart switch. They're available on AliExpress at least, and possibly Amazon as well. I can't recommend any for you because I don't use them, myself. Look for ones that are designed for window or wall Air Conditioning units.
Anyway, you're not likely to be able to solve your problem with your current kit. It'll have to be an upgrade or a rethink.
Good luck!
Maybe not the solution you were asking for, but the Nvidia Shield on the stock code has been a fair compromise for me. The ads on the main screen are relatively unobtrusive, and sometimes even vaguely relevant to our viewing preferences. We largely watch Hulu, Prime and YouTube+ (with free access to AppleTV and Netflix, but I haven't set those up yet). For ads, we pretty much only deal with Amazon's new advertising in included Prime content. We'll probably stop viewing that content once the series we're currently watching wraps.
For context, my daily driver phone is LineageOS which is rooted all to heck to smack down intrusive advertising and tracking (Magisk, AdAway, AppManager to disable in-app trackers, uBlock on the browser, etc...), and my home network uses a pihole for DNS and malware blocking. I really hate advertisers.
On the pihole, the Shield is actually only the #3 top offender of blocked requests, behind my wife's work laptop and my kid's Steam rig. The main offender on the Shield was the ESPN app, which I removed because I never really watch sports outside of tye idd division game, which most of the time I meet friends out at the local pub anyway. Otherwise the Shield has been a well behaved appliance.
So it's not the perfect ad-free experience, but its hardly the advertising dystopia of broadcast TV.