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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)M
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166
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3 yr. ago

  • HomeAssistant will run on a Raspberry pi just fine but don't expect to run a bunch of add-ons that way and things like Frigate with a few cameras will not work very well. So if you are not sure what you will be running in the future a mini pc is a good idea then you can install most any add-ons you like. The only thing you will need to pickup is a USB adapter for zigbee, z-wave, matter, or Bluetooth and if you decide to run cameras a Google Coral for object detection. You can run HomeAssistant using Docker however you will need to manage this much more than using HAOS. Unless you really want to deal with nitty gritty stuff you will lyrically want to use the HAOS version, https://community.home-assistant.io/t/home-assistant-installation-methods/207703

    While HomeAssistant has features for automatically doing things you will probably want to install NodeRed for more complex automations. It's well worth it especially if you want something randomized. I use it to select my porch RGB LED strip sequences randomly as well as my RGB LED address light sequence. They come on automatically at sundown and change or turn off at specific times throughout the evening. The porch strip changes to a bright white when a motion sensor is triggered or when a tracked device comes into the home zone.

    I started of using 100% wifi based this and built all of my sensors based on ESP8266's and ESP32'S using ESPHome. I've recently started adding zigbee since flashing stuff over is getting more difficult/nearly impossible outside of a few wifi based devices. I actually started using Sonoff ZBMINIR2's for switches and plugs, the "switch" legs on the ZBMINIR2 can accept high voltage but when wired through a switch alone they are only 5v dc so I've used a couple to make in line cord switches with some simple push buttons in a hobby box for some lights I have. I've also installed them in receptacle boxes and turned a single outlet into a zigbee switched one. I'm using a sonoff zigbee dongle-e with ZHA as my coordinator and so far is been working perfectly.

    Adding a zigbee device using ZHA is as simple as opening up HomeAssistant going to the settings/devices/zigbee and clicking on add device. Set the name and location and you are done unless you need to change a setting in the device. The ZBMINIR2's by default are setup to work with toggle switches but can be used with intermittent pulse buttons as well by just changing a setting for the particular device.

    My RGB LED strips are controlled using ESP32's and WLED. My front porch strip is u hay under 1500 individual pixels and my address numbers are about 100.

    I currently track my power usage with ESPHome on an ESP32 with CircuitSetup's split phase energy meter kit. But hopefully in the next couple months I will have an Enphase system in place that will handle the majority of that along with solar production. I also have a simple water meter with a pulse output connected to an ESP8266 that feeds data into HomeAssistant as well.

    If you are looking for premade sensors you can find a ton of different ones that are available for zigbee or z-wave but if there is something special you want search what ESPHome supports and add them in. I actually track vehicle battery voltage at home using an ESP8266 and ESPHome.

    One of the potential issues if you live in town with a lot of WiFi AP's around you is that some of the zigbee channels can overlap with WiFi frequencies in the upper 2.4ghz range (channel 11 mainly) so that can cause some issues with stuff that is further from your coordinator, however many zigbee devices when hooked to mains power will also act as relays so it's simple enough to add a ZBMINIR2 to a switch at an in between point. I've honestly never had an issue and I run multiple WiFi AP's in my own home and have neighbors with a couple routers. Z-wave is not the same but I believe the devices run a bit more and z-wave is a part of the matter/thread ecosystem and has a much longer range (up to 800 meters) but runs slower as it's in the 900mhz range. I highly suggest taking a look at the protocols and compare them for your particular needs https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Z-Wave#Comparison_to_other_protocols

    A small note about long range wireless signals. Having something that can operate 800 meters away since great, but remember there will be someone who also thinks it may be fun to try and hack stuff and the further your signal reaches the more chances it will be spotted. Years ago I used to encourage people to secure their ap's by changing the SSID to something very colorful and change the passwords.

  • I've found that the trauma actually causes hyper awareness and it's not uncommon. https://www.simplypsychology.org/hypervigilance.html

    Also while it has its risks similar risk is associated with many activities, but diving is generally a group activity and stresses the buddy system to reduce those risks. A properly trained diver who has certified to depth over multiple dives is probably safer diving that getting on the highway in a vehicle with hundreds of random people of dubious skill and training.

    My plan is also to overtrain. There are operations out there who pump out divers who do not have good training and later on need retraining. My class sizes will be no more than two, always. Because I'm not doing the training for profit I can spend as much time as needed to go over all of the little details and train them with the knowledge a rescue certified diver would have in their arsenal with them only being open water certified.

    I'm also planning to mainly deal with people who have been referred to me by counseling services or other therapy programs. Funding for non-profits is difficult to begin with so training and equipping a random person who makes claims of abuse isn't likely to happen.

    https://www.doghousediving.org/the-doghouse-diving-vision/frequently-asked-questions-and-the-answers/

  • What you need to get started is training. Dive certification will run around 500. You can find some shops that charge a bit less and some that charge more. The biggest thing in the agency alphabet soup is to find a shop that truly teaches and then plan to do advanced certification as well. If you can travel to do the Advanced Open Water certification do it, a week somewhere warm with some diving is worth it.

    Things you should really buy: mask, fins, and snorkel. Buy it before you start the class. You can go on Amazon and buy any cheap mask and snorkel set where the mask has a tempered glass lens/lenses. Skip the dry top snorkel, they don't really do much other than cause issues (I have a design for one that would be amazing but need to prototype it first and don't have the ability/funding right now.)

    For fins you need a scuba fin, I prefer ones made for dive boots rather than barefoot ones. Then you can walk around in the dive boots and have more grip and a little protection vs being barefoot. The fins I use are Cressi Pro Light but if I was to buy a set today I would look at the SEAC Propulsion S. And buy yellow or orange fins, trust me.

    After that a dive computer is a really smart buy. You have a couple choices there and they can get expensive. A good basic computer is the Cressi Leonardo series or the Mares Puck Pro + Series. I started started with the Mares Puck Pro and just updated to the Mares Quad CI but will use the Puck Pro as a backup. You can use the app that comes with the dive computer but if you use Android and want to keep all your logs in one place even if you change computers (and you probably will if you get started) DiveMate is worth it. It works with tons of dive computers and you can still have signatures in your logs. I haven't used paper logs since my first certification. If money is no object the Garmin Descent Mk3i is one I (and many others) have drooled over.

    Next is BCD and Regulator set. I'm looking at the Scubapro Hydros Pro with Air2 for my next BCD. Regulator I would suggest is the Scubapro MK25 with the G260. I use the MK20 with the G250, it's a tank and works great. Grab a console with depth gauge and pressure gauge as well, if you can get one with a compass as well all the better.

  • Go learn to SCUBA dive. Being 100 feet under water is amazing.

    My wife passed away February 28th 2019 and I was lost in life. I wandered into a shop and was certified to dive on June 16th after a few classes. By January 16th 2020 I was Advanced Open Water certified and on June 28th I was Rescue certified. I actually want to become certified to instruct and use my underwater videos to pay for teens and young adults who have survived sexual abuse to become certified to dive and hopefully be able to provide them a set of gear.

    I personality am a survivor of mental, physical, and sexual abuse. Diving has been the best thing in my life and in less than 100 dives I have seen things that people with thousands of dives haven't. It has also helped my mental health more than anything else I've ever tried. Now I just want to be in the water every chance I get.

  • Then it's time to participate in the community. Find a project that does something similar. Get the hardware ID's and configuration and submit it to the project as an added request. Stick a twenty dollar bounty on it. How much is your time worth and how much are you wasting trying to solve a problem that will continue to be more invasive? Windows isn't free, it costs your time to fix a corporate decision.

    If we would stick a few bucks in the coffer from time to time supporting our community through cash and submitting info and time helping it won't take long before more things work even better. And we will no longer have to accept the wishes of the corporate masters. Microsoft and apple (account many others) are the IBM of the current generation and have been for a while. Look at the price of a computer before they created compatability in 3rd party computers. Microsoft isn't losing money on home users either because they hover up all the information. Even installing software that breaks their access gives them info, that's how they know how far to push it.

  • Ods are that a similar to is available. Just gotta search for it.

  • This was my initial thinking as well. Could also be something loose in the cylinder connection that is allowing it to move and shift around side to side just enough to allow the brass to deform.

  • I didn't. Made the switch a year ago. Only reason why I boot windows is to update a couple crypto wallets i need to transfer over.

  • I use ChimeraOS on my stepson's computer. A few more thing integrated into it for other gaming and I rarely have to touch it. (Thankfully cause that place always needs cleaning)

    It's not arch based but it's of the immutable variety.

    I daily drive ubuntu cinnamon 24.04LTS. I rarely buy cutting edge hardware and I edit video as well. 4K 60 fps scuba diving footage for those wondering and gaming had been fine for the most part. Mainly standard fixes similar to those on steamos outside of that is been hardware related and minimal.

  • I actually started using HomeAssistant on TrueNAS Core a few years ago. From my understanding the best way to do this now it's to use the TrueNAS X86-64 ISO in a VM. The TrueNAS docker system seems to be integrated differently than a standard docker installation on an os like Debian.

    If you really want to keep using docker on TrueNAS you should create users with unique ID's in TrueNAS and give them permission to access the needed resources. Those ID's also need to match the user in the Docker container.

    I personally use HomeAssistant on an Odroid N2+ and haven't made the switch to TrueNAS Scale so I can't be much help beyond that.

  • It's just a fact of life. I'm similar in that white screens hate me. I use my tablet in the evenings and the blue light filter and ultra dim modes help a lot. Still always an issue on some apps and web pages.

  • I'm rewiring my house so have started installing Sonoff ZBMINIR2 on one in certain locations. My outlets are being put in boxes large enough for a pair of double outlets (total of four individual plugs) so making one switched is kinda easy. Just wired it up without any switch at all and stuffed it in the box. Just have to break the tab on the positive side and wire the unswitched outlet as usual. I then get three always on outlets and one zigbee switched outlet, I'm going to create a label for the face plate front to show the switched one and the back side had the breaker and branch location info so it will be easy to figure out later on if needed.

    I tested a couple of the ZBMINIR2's switched side and if you bring power and ground through the ZBMINIR2 the switched contacts are only about 6v dc. The only disadvantage I have seen so far is that when a switch is wired up and rapidly turned on and off it goes into pairing mode so kids flipping switches are a bad thing but it's easy enough to pair back up if you have your phone handy when it happens.

  • I came across Symfonium last night and it looks like it will be a good alternative to plexamp and it's supposed to work with multiple servers. I've used plex for around 10 years and have had a lifetime plexpass for nearly as long. The recent changes they have made pushing streaming first is the main reason why i am working to switch to something else.

  • No clue. Not really a social person. I can say that for every day there will likely be a new trend starting and an old one dying.

    My content rarely has me showing up in it and even then microphones tend to not work very well at 60 feet under water. Then again that gives me an idea, I can take a fake fish under water with an attached fake mic and do a voice over later on for some fun....

  • It actually makes a copy on my phone of both the Playlist and Music it references.

    However, Plex seems to be moving towards things other than local media so you may want to avoid it. The recent app design changes are putting streaming media and corporate profits ahead of the actual users. That is why I am looking to switch to Jellyfin.

  • I have Plex so it automatically copies selected playlists and such to my phone. Going to be switching to Jellyfin soon though but I'm guessing it has a similar feature.

    I use SyncThing as well to keep certain files and such synced from my server, phone, and tablet. I also sync pictures and video to my server from my phone and tablet.

  • I sync my music to my phone from my home server.

  • You truly have to find what helps you. For some people it's minimal activity and relaxation, for others it's something frantic and crazy(but not their job), some people turn to sex and relationships, others turn towards absolute control, while someone else may prefer to fully relinquish control of everything and just plain let another person be in control of every aspect of their life.

    Being burned out takes a while to figure out sometimes. I personally want to be 70 feet under water on a reef every chance I get so I don't have to think about or really deal with people. Nature often helps people who are in jobs where they are stuck indoors and time with very few people and minimal communication if they normally deal with a constant stream of people. Basically the polar opposite of their job.

    Going for a walk in a park our on a beach is a good place to start it you can. Find something that allows your mind to just exist and be a part of your surroundings. In a pinch you may find that searching for an asmr nature video may help if you can't figure out what you want to do or don't have easy access. Sometimes it's about finding your element. If the idea of being in water sets you on edge and stresses you out it's probably not going to help, at the same time if you don't like heat going for a jog in a desert won't be your cup of tea either.