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morbidcactus

@ morbidcactus @lemmy.ca

Posts
8
Comments
477
Joined
3 yr. ago

  • Any Amazon replacements on prime for a AMS Bambu 4 pin bus cable

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  • Bambu has what looks like a pinout in their troubleshooting docs. From your picture, that looks like a molex microfit connector to me so you could try making one if you're comfortable doing so, good to have around imo regardless.

    Other option there is to wait, confirm and document its pinout and then you have it if you ever need to repair that cable in the future.

  • There goes dinner

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  • I really like waistline for that, it sets targets on a (configurable) rolling window, and it's open source.

  • Nearly 90% of Windows Games now run on Linux, latest data shows — as Windows 10 dies, gaming on Linux is more viable than ever

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  • The only real issue is hdr in my experience, runs fine through gamescope usually but I've found the proton only option (expose Wayland and the like through proton_ge) technically work but the colours are washed out (and yeah, I have all the dxvk hdr stuff there). Dlss and frame gen work perfectly fine, HDR through gamescope does work as well for most games, bl4 has weird dlss artifacts in linux for some reason but that's the notable standout to me. Been running a 4070ti for the last year for reference, I do intend to go amd at some point but nvidia works fine.

  • A reminder that SMRs make us dependent on US nuclear fuel

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  • CANDU also has a lot of different possible fuel cycles, from Wikipedia, these are some of the possible options

    We also already have the ability to produce heavy water for them.

  • Play anything good lately?

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  • Thank you, I'll have a look after work!

  • Play anything good lately?

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  • That's actually amazing, can you choose the bots you're filling the raid/party slots with? I've got wicked nostalgia for wotlk and my partner was interested in wow when classic came out but they've had bad experiences with pug raids in other games (heck, even issues with guilds). Would you mind posting a link to some of the guides you used?

  • Prusa3D Core One assembled from kit in roughly 36 hours

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  • You get a bag of haribo golden bears with the kit, manual has callouts after completing a section to treat them as a reward for completing a milestone, intro page talking about it

  • Prusa3D Core One assembled from kit in roughly 36 hours

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  • Building my v2.4 was spread out across multiple days, I didn't rush anything. A lot of that time was spent making sure everything was square, tramming the gantry, cabling took a while. There's a lot of small fiddly stuff, bearings that you'll not want to damage, things you don't want to accidentally pinch so while you could probably bang out a kit pretty quick once you've had some experience, I'd still really want to take my time with it, put time and care into the assembly and it'll pay off with quality and reliability.

    And to be fair to the total time I spent, I spent time trying to understand how things all worked together while assembling it, active assembly time was only a fraction of it.

  • When to use exhaust/intake fans?

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  • If you're going the route of a stealthmax, the v2 version has a servo controlled vent, original version it's manual. All filaments give off material you don't want to breath, nevermore has good info on this in the micro repo. Personally, I'd always aim for enclosed no matter what, the most I have in my garage is a box fan w/ decent furnace filters taped to it (works for wildfire smoke), I'd be venting outside if I had to setup inside the house.

    I only ever had filtered recirc and exhaust on my enclosures, I'd rather keep it slightly negative to ambient air to try keeping the atmosphere inside the printer.

  • Anyone had any luck running Fusion 360 on Linux?

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  • While the tn issue is better, personally found I a lot better to not use external geometry at all and instead build my references wrt the base plane. At worst I have to change a sketch attachment, that and doing chamfers absolutely last has saved a ton of grief on some recent models. I hand sketch first, how I learned cad in the first place, that workflow seems to mesh well with it.

    Still the odd crash here or there but I'm accepting of it.

  • i got aoe 1 once

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  • The copy of Roller Coaster tycoon I played as a kid literally came out of one of those boxes, there were some legit great ones on offer.

  • Steam Deck LCD 256GB on sale for 20% off ($400 -> $320)

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  • For the price? Yeah absolutely. I got mine really discounted and it holds up, my partner has an oled which looks great and I like the larger screen, but not sure if $300 more is worth it for everyone. You can get a solid case & screen protector, battery bank and upgrade the ssd for nearly that.

  • Which Core XY printer?

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  • It's nice to have just in case but seriously, I find my 350x350 way oversized for what I print on the regular. The best use I have for that size is printed panels, but the z height us mostly useless for 99% of what I do.

  • This is because of a filthy print sheet, right? (more pictures inside)

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  • Total anecdote, I had similar washboarding with my mk3s, I did a bed levelling mod that replaced some of the standoffs with silicone tubing spacers and that helped a lot. It was always in the same spot and it would mostly show up on prints that covered large areas and toward the edges of the bed.

    I do echo others though that I do think extrusion multiplier and first layer offset do play a role with it, petg doesn't like the same amount of squish that you can get away with using abs (not to say it doesn't happen, just doesn't look as rough, it doesn't cause a failed print for me and I don't mind a quick cleanup with a deburring tool depending what it's for).

    Does it show up if you flip the sheet just as a thought? I recall having a bit more of an issue with one side of my satin sheet for example. Last thought, could be worth giving things a long heat soak before doing meshing and homing, make sure everything is more or less stable expansion wise.

  • Looking to get my first 3d printer, any suggestions?

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  • I'd totally suggest looking for used prusas personally, something like a mk3s is definitely slow by today's standards but they're super capable, very simple and easy to maintain. I've modded mine to the point that the rails and axis steppers are the only original components and planning another mod right now. If you could find one for a reasonable price it's a great platform.

    If you are willing to spend a bit and want a kit/something new, I really like Vorons and other open source printers, I've seen decent reviews of some of the formbot kits for something like a v0.2, includes a bunch of mods you'd probably look at eventually anyhow, I'm not sure if this is in USD or localised to CAD but with printed parts and a dragon hotend (highly recommend, v6 hotends are a pain imo, they work but having the block fixed is so much nicer) is $429 from china. It's capable of printing every part for larger Voron models (and obviously stuff like abs) and is more importantly enclosed.

    Add something like a nevermore micro to it (component kit) and you're solid (recommend enclosed and filtered, ideally you don't print in the same room you're in without good fume handling, I've done unenclosed abs in my office back 12 years ago, abs these days doesn't stink as bad but from experience it's super unpleasant, 0/10 do not recommend, I did it exactly once)

  • Does Pierre hate Harper

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  • I'll bring it up every time he's mentioned, dude continued exporting this shit after his tenure through the idu (recall him supporting Orban for example), Farage has totally publicly cited Preston Manning and the reform party as influences/models. Don't forget the barbaric cultural practices hotline either, killed the per vote subsidy too.

    I recall there being a lot of ties between the Tories and the republicans stateside too, but can't find an article to support.

    Legitimately, I think it's a toss up between Manning and Harper as to who's worse, thinking about their damage abroad too. Can also add the treatment of Omar Khadr (which does fall under capitulation to the us, and just general trampling on rights), there's a presser from around the time of the scoc ruling with Poilievre which highlights the Tories constant attacks on the judiciary too.

    So much happened in those years it's honestly hard to keep track, Harper should be kryptonite to the Tories like Bob Rae is to some people for the ondp.

  • What are your favorite open source 3D printers?

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  • There's so many mods out there for them too because of their openness, I've got a v2.4, flying gantry is cool as heck but I'd consider doing a trident, the 350mm bed size is overkill for most of my prints.

    I find mine produces some really nice parts, able to hit chamber temps into the 60s pretty reliably, warp isn't really a huge concern for me with it.

  • I'm Unable to get any PETG HF Filament to Stick on the Bed after having Switched from a 0.4mm to a 0.2mm Nozzle [Bambu P1S]

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  • Are you able to mess with the first layer offset on the bambu printers? May need to bring your nozzle a bit closer, especially with a textured surface. Temps seem comparable to the stuff I have on hand.

    For cleaning, is soap and water compatible with your surface? Personally found that while IPA is fine for maintenance, a few drops of unscented dish soap in water works extremely well as a degreaser, I've literally washed stubborn surfaces in the sink. Petg is super picky with any residual oils and the small nozzle could totally make that worse.

    Maybe try running slower? Just to eliminate variables, may be worth running a quick extrusion calibration? Petg can be an absolute pain for bed adhesion in my experience.

  • How Transparent is Clear Resin in actual use? (Solved!)

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  • I posted this a while back, came across a post on hackaday on doing clear lens on a resin printer with lower effort, the article links an older one about doing clear resin prints that might be helpful. To me they look pretty decent, certainly a heck of a lot better than any transparent prints I've done with a filament printer.

    As others said though, easiest would probably be doing something like laser cut acrylic and sandwiching the picture between them.