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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)M
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2 yr. ago

  • That's the name of the program. You can search it and it'll pop right up. It is now owned by Cooler Master.

    Once you download it, you can run either the CPU Srress test or the Linpack test (this is for Intel mostly as it is their proprietary test) and it'll run while looking for math or WHEA errors.

    While you're doing science, I would also recommend doing a RAM test with memtest86+. You download the .iso and make a bootable drive, and boot into it. Both RAM and CPU can make similar weird failures so checking both is a decent idea.

  • Partially dead CPUs can absolutely still POST and boot. I work in a PC repair shop and see it all the time. Everything will work totally "fine" and you'll get weird errors here and there similarly to failing RAM. You have to run a dedicated CPU test like the ones in OCCT (Windows-based, don't lynch me) or similar to see if you're getting WHEA or other errors.

    The reason for this is that a lot of CPUs have built in redundancy to get around having imperfect silicon, and sometimes that is enough to make the system still work, but not be quite "right".

    The good news is, if you are producing such errors, you usually have a 3yr warranty on most CPUs and the OEM will RMA them for you.

  • This sounds like it was strictly the fault of the USB load. If you make a UEFI USB (you should use Ventoy, it's great btw) all you would need to do is shut off Secure Boot and install.

    Most bootable drives don't support Secure Boot. You turn it off, do the install, and turn it back on if you want it. I personally just leave it off.

    Outside of those caveats everything you described is industry-standard stuff. Nothing to do with Lenovo.

  • OP does not use said meme

    this guy links to it

    Smh.SMH.

    (Or possibly OP edited away from that meme and this guy leaves the link. I'm a day late, take your pick. )

  • I work in a decent-sized computer repair shop and this is a very accurate representation of what the average user knows.

    Just in case anyone thinks this is over the top.

  • Hey there. I run Linux on my daily but also work in a Windows-centric PC repair shop.

    "Official" answer: You can move your key over to a new mobo by signing in to Windows with a Microsoft account, installing your new hardware, and activating Win 11 through the Settings->Activation->Troubleshooting (button)->"I recently changed hardware". And that will pull your key back down from your account. But it does lock you into an account.

    "Unofficial" answer: you can absolutely update to Win 11 on old hardware. The easiest way is to boot a Win 11 iso in Ventoy. That works fairly often. You can alternatively edit the installer to not do the TPM check in the installer, which you can search for guides for online/YouTube.

    Alternatively: you can hop on g2a, kinguin, etc and buy Windows keys cheap.

    To be clear I know this is all bullshit, but it's options. Hope this helps!

  • I work in a computer repair shop and we rarely see any Thinkpads of any age.

    Far from shit. And they have among the best warranty options in the biz

  • As others have said, I also highly recommend physically separate drives. I have found both Linux and Windows affect each other sometimes especially when you're getting your bearings with dual booting.

    For instance, after running Linux the clock in Windows will be wrong. And Windows will eat the Linux boot partition especially after feature packs (formerly called service packs), which come out about 1-2/year.

  • Well not finished pine, for starters.

  • I like the terminal but don't remember all the arguments. I find that clunky. That's my main issue with it. (I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any)

  • It's true. I work in a computer shop and we see literally thousands and thousands of dollars lost from people clicking on ads that look like normal buttons (things like "Download", "Next", etc). And not just the elderly either. Everyone has a a combination of inputs to get scared and comply. Folks that are otherwise extremely competent and savvy can get scammed too.

    The best security you can have online is adblockers, only beaten by using trusted websites.

    Edit, fair points with sites being slimy these days. I meant using legitimate versions of websites rather than copy/fake websites designed to steal credentials.

  • Shout-out to Vivaldi for forking before mv3 happens. It is chromium based but they are very openly anti-google. It's the OG Chrome devs as far as I understand.