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fluxx

@ fluxx @lemmy.world

Posts
6
Comments
122
Joined
3 yr. ago

  • Is there no good inexpensive CAD software?

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  • I've been using freecad with great success for years now and I'd say while I agree freecad is rough in terms of ux, it is highly usable, especially after 1.0 version. I feel like investing time in overcoming its flaws and weaknesses will pay off in the future, as it will enable access to a stable, eternally free and reliable software. Though I also agree it crashes frequently, I set a very frequent auto save and I don't often get screwed now.

  • Adhered so hard it delaminated the glass.

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  • The reason I'm not going for pei or any other spring steel sheet is it isn't flat and warps with temperature. I'd need to compensate for warping and potentially flatten my bed, which all goes away with glass. Additionally, since I'm on ender 5, the weight doesn't matter, so that is what I use. Also, for me petg is better than pla in almost every way i use the printer, I care about creeping and temperature stability, which makes petg the absolute king. But for some other use cases, other stuff makes more sense.

  • Adhered so hard it delaminated the glass.

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  • Just get a few new pieces of glass/mirror cut to the same size. I've been using a piece of mirror for years now. No glue, nothing. Petg all of the time. Works great. Has a few blemishes, but still perfectly flat and very cheap.

  • BREAKING: 4 Israeli soldiers missing, others killed in resistance ambush in Zeitoun neighbourhood east of Gaza: Israel media

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  • ....and four brave cowboys lost their hats...

  • Slicer software for a Linux system?

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  • I use cura on Ubuntu without issues, the appimage version. I did also try prusa/super slicer not too long ago and it worked without issues as well.

  • There is currently a bill in the NY State Assembly to require background checks for the purchase of 3D printers

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  • Well, everyone knows only main boards have a serial number, so you need a permit for that. But the rest is a spare part, you can get it freely.

    /s

  • Serbian authorities using spyware to illegally surveil activists, report finds

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  • Oh, great, my country is in the news again. Oh, wait, it's bad news, again. Here's some better news: the students have blocked all the universities and other people are joining the protests in hopes of overthrowing the authoritarian regime. The corruption has reached peak levels and is actually killing people. The government is doing it's best to stay in power, but no real, mass violence has been applied just yet. People have given up on elections because they are demonstrably fixed and can't change anything. I don't know how this will end.

  • Intel hasn't sold a single Arrow Lake CPU at Germany's largest retailer — Core Ultra 200S sales stagnate after just one week

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  • You don't buy from TSMC, but from Intel. Also, AMD also uses TSMC, they didn't have such problems recently.

  • Please god... after the last couple of releases I need this. WE need this...

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  • Are they any close? Seems like they've been doing it for ages and they aren't close.

  • Astronomers Found Something Cold and Wet Near Uranus

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  • In Futurama, they renamed it to Urectum :)

  • Elon's Death Machine (aka Tesla) Mows Down Deer at Full Speed , Keeps Going on "Autopilot"

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  • Agree, it didn't do anything to avoid the obstacle. A human could probably see it as an obstacle and try to swerve to the side, albeit not knowing what it is. Not saying it's possible to avoid, but some reaction would be made.

  • Weird PETG Printing Behavior

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  • This looks like heat creep and/or clog. Check the hotend fan (not the part cooling one). If it starts happening after a while, it's either that or the nozzle has cooled too much. But if it happens with lower speed as well, then I wouldn't say it's that it's the latter. Try increasing the temperature. I'm printing mine at 270°C. Also I keep the bed at 70°C but that's not important. I've had issues like that with bad conducting nozzles (hardened/stainless steel) and thermistors not properly seated on the heat block. When this happens, pause the print, try feeding the filament by hand and see if there is any resistance (can you feel the clog). Try increasing the temperature, reduce the retraction distance to try and avoid it. I'm printing exclusively with petg for years now, never had issues like this due to moisture. You get more stringing, yes, but no failures on actual printing.

  • Hey can someone help with print quality this looks really stingy and sloppy

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  • You're completely right, I forgot about that method. I've used it in the past, it works great and is far more controllable and safe.

  • Hey can someone help with print quality this looks really stingy and sloppy

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  • True, I've seen many molten rolls of filament because of overly warm ovens. Make sure it doesn't go over 60C and you're good. Mine is good, has a little overshoot when heating up, but if you let it warm up first and then put the filament, it generally stays very close to 60C. I havent had problems. Other ovens - be careful. Food dehydrator is better, but if you don't have it, you may as well buy an actual filament dryer. Desicant beads didn't work for me. They do the trick of maintaining the dryness, but if you have ANY built up moisture in your filament, the beads won't do much.

  • Hey can someone help with print quality this looks really stingy and sloppy

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  • A little mini torch, similar to a regular gas lighter also can work wonderfully.

  • Hey can someone help with print quality this looks really stingy and sloppy

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  • As others have mentioned:

    • Dry your filament. Stick it in the oven for 2+ hours on minimal settings. If you have a fan in the oven, even better. edit: use the printer bed, see comments below
    • Tune your printer. Do a temperature tower with your dried filament. Lower temperatures might improve quality at the expense of lower layer adhesion. Do a flow calibration routine. Overextrusion can also have effects like this.
    • Slow down the printing. Increase minimal layer time, which might have an effect. If it's original E3, it has relatively poor part cooling, which can be compensated by slowing things down.

    Nothing wrong with Ender 3, if you thinker enough, you can get results as good as any other printer. But it may require tinkering. The model that you're printing is difficult with FDM printers of any kind. It has thin, delicate parts with steep overhangs. It can look better, but it's gonna be hard to achieve. Resin printers are definitely a better choice for this, but you use what you have.

  • One Of The Rust Linux Kernel Maintainers Steps Down - Cites "Nontechnical Nonsense"

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  • Well, I've been a C/C++ dev for half of my career, I didn't find Rust syntax ugly. Some things are better than others, but not a major departure from C/C++. ObjC is where ugly is at. And I even think swift is more ugly. In fact, I can't find too many that are as close to C/C++ as Rust. As for logic.... Well, I want to say you'll get used to it, but for some things, it's not true. Rust is a struggle. Whether it's worth it, is your choice. I personally would take it over C++ any day.

  • Zero G Mercury CoreXY conversion for Ender5

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  • In 2024? No, unless it's a plus. Plus already has that support. E5 has an 8 bit board and no silent drivers. If I'd be buying today,I'd buy sovol sv08. It has everything already done to it while being open source and is able to be modded out of the box.

  • Zero G Mercury CoreXY conversion for Ender5

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  • Oh, yes, it caused weird resonant vibrations at certain speeds. A terrible design and way too flexible bed. Some people print some struts, but I didn't find them to be much of a solution. I ended up mirroring the far side and copying it to front. Now it's very rigid and the quality has vastly improved especially at speed printing.