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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)B
Posts
3
Comments
911
Joined
2 yr. ago

  • Yeah, it's -11F/-24C right now and the humidistat is saying it's 22% right now. Usually, in the summer time humidity ranges from 50% to 75%. But I have stored filaments like PLA and even PETG open on a shelf without care for over a year. Even now, the boxes they are stored in are not air tight.

    I have never need to dry PLA and I do dry PETG occasionally if I really need that super clean print. Otherwise I just either manually remove the slight stringing of the PETG or I totally ignore it. I do keep a spool of TPU around and I do dry that before use. But it seems to holds up well for several weeks just hanging on the printer.

  • That's the cool thing about medicine, you don't "do" medicine-- you practice medicine.

    And anytime you prescribe a drug, you are starting a trial. Because you really don't know how it will do to that one patient. Experience may tell you that it should do what you expect it to do, (because it almost always does). But it could only partially work or do nothing, or have varying side affects, or even kill you patient.

    As an ER director of a hospital once told me, "Despite all we think we know and all we think we can do for a patient. It still mostly boils down to keeping the patient amused and letting nature take it's course."

  • It's the number of walls you print that will determine just how long the box will hold the water in or out. I find 4 walls to be about as water tight as I need. But I'm not sealing anything valuable either.

    Edit to add: This would be an excellent need for that brick layer printing to be used. The offset layers would provide far better sealing than the standard layer method we commonly use.

  • Yep. The few I see are easily ignored. Or poked if you want to set them off.

  • Still got to have the money. And police departments need to have budget to replace equipment.

    I have been elected to a city council several times and have gone over police budgets and it was no easier for the police to get money replace a squad car or get any of the "goodies" you think are so easy to them to get. There is only so much money to be had in any city budget.

  • I think "Patch this Bish" is kind of how we got to this point.

  • Let me introduce you to 'We ain't got no money to buy anything' trick.

  • Replaced by who? And where is the profit in selling something to someone who has no money to buy?

  • You act like you don't understand police departments need grants to buy those things also.

  • That's unlikely. You need to get grants from the federal government, chiefly the DHS, to get money to buy major equipment. There ain't anymore federal grants remember. Small volunteer, (70% of all fire depts in the US), services are especially reliant on those grants to replace major assets.

    Source: Been on committees to spec and buy ambulances and fire trucks and turnout gear. Even boots and gloves sometimes.

  • I would not trust Crealty. They have a long ways to go to get over the "We don't care about customers" And the "We got your money, now get out of here. You bother me kid" mentality. They've sold too much junk for too long.

  • The X smart 3 is no longer available. Much to my sadness, I was going to buy one and it's no longer available. Not surprising due to most consumers wanting bigger and bigger printers.

    There are really only choices in this size range any more that are actually decent. There are a couple of 'build it yourself' models out there, but most won't want to be bothered to do so. So the A1 Mini and the Prusa Mini are about it. It would be nice if someone else stepped up an made a good budget 1803 sized printer.

    And yes, sadly I did end up with the Bambu Mini.

  • Randomly and badly as a rule.

  • Lots of people out there that don't want to be bothered but such details. And absolutely don't want to spend time learning the why you do something.

  • Think of it as a way to say you have no clue how to communicate correctly through the written word. By the time I'm forced to wade through your lack of punctuation, misspellings and the autocorrect blunders and the stupid emojis to decipher what you REALLY meant, I already have equated your IQ to be around the range of my old orange tabby cat.

    If you send me a text, I will consider it of such low priority that I might get back to you in a week or so.

  • I absolutely detest text messaging or emails. You have a problem? Call me because I can probably solve your issue in one minute of phone call. I have been almost always been subjected to texting sessions that lasted for several hours because the dumbass on the other end lacked the spelling and vocab skills to provide an accurate written description of the problem.

    Time is money and even sometimes life threatening unless the fastest method of communication is use. And fastest ain't an email or text.

  • Bambu hasn't been the first to not turn on some features in the standard Marlin firmware. They won't be the last either. PID tuning isn't something you do a lot of anyway. Maybe once or twice if you change out extruder types or do a complete reset of firmware. They are probably calling some kind of macro to automatically do it for all the newbies out there. If you went and studied Bambu's firmware, you could find the section in the firmware to turn it on I suppose.

  • PID tuning is available in Marlin printers. I've had PID tuning in my 6 year old Prusa Mk3s for 6 years now. Whether or not it's been turned on for that Ender 3 is another question. But it can be turned on with a bit of editing.

    Bambu though, has seen fit to remove manual PID tuning for users. I'm not impressed by that. A step backwards IMO.