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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)I
Posts
6
Comments
428
Joined
3 yr. ago

  • Honestly, whatever makes the most sense with the materials in the local area. And then I don't mean what you can get from the local hardware store, but literally, what the earth in the area provides. If you have lots of clay, then brick would be best. If you have lots of big stones, then stone construction it'll be. If you're deep in the woods, then a wooden building would serve you just right. Maybe a combination of materials and techniques if you have options in the area.

    Bonus points if you can build in a way that passively optimises for managing things like moisture and temperature.

  • With a pinch of PFAS for good measure?

  • Or it's on a site dominated by amateur authors, like WattPad or AO3

  • Ran the numbers. 600 °R is about 60 °C, so not that much...

    Meanwhile, while we're still on antiquated units, 600 °Ré (degrees Réamur) is about 750 °C, so that will definitely do the trick

  • Basically, Firefox only crushes a handful of elderly cats while everyone else crushes kittens by the shipload.

  • Conclusion: Tragedeighs are more likely to be issued by conservative nutjobs than leftie snowflakes.

  • That cat has some serious periodic components

  • Looking at that pepper while this musical sting plays

    In case the link breaks, it's a little after the 36 second mark

  • I'm at a loss for options...

  • Star War: Attack of the Clone

  • NL here. "Shotgun" is a concept, though mostly through Pop Culture Osmosis.

  • Kelvin could do the trick too.

    Rankine might be a little more iffy though...

  • And how about insects? Arthropods? Creatures capable of engineering their environment?

  • I also do paper towels for the bulk, though I try to do it while the pan is still a little warm, and may even heat the pan up a little if needed, so that if it's a fat that's solid at room temperature, I can treat it the same way as oil.

  • Plot twist (that's actually only a very minor jiggle): the frog is highly poisonous and takes the bird down to the grave with him.

  • Most games that spark a Tetris Effect with me, where I'm still playing them in my mind while I've put them down hours ago, are industrial automation games. So the likes of Factorio, Satisfactory, Captain Of Industry.

  • Bloody US Defaultism 😒

  • I'm quite the Type F fan:

    • The plug is recessed, so half-plugged plugs have their pins inaccessible.
    • Most modern Type F plugs are Type E compatible, as well as Europlug compatible, which means that if the plug doesn't need to be bulky, it won't be.
    • Most modern installations have shutters in the pin holes, which both need to be pushed aside, making it impossible to plug in a foreign object. This unlike the Type G, where you only need to plug in the ground pin to reveal the live & neutral.
    • The plug is symmetrical, making it easier to plug in a device in a way that makes the cable work for the user. Besides, having live & neutral plugged into specific sides of a device is not that important for daily use by the average Joe, and if it is, you can just flip the plug.
    • The plug is inclined to land on its side, so if you drop one and then step on it, while it still won't be comfortable, it at least won't be as painful as stepping onto a Type G.
  • Because it's a hot mess trying to accept both type F and type L. The traditional type L socket has three pins inline. The pin spacing between Live and Neutral for an earthed device using type L is wider than using type F, so plugging in a Schuko won't work in normal type L sockets. However, some type L sockets have extra, smaller holes at Europlug spacing, to accept ungrounded type C plugs.

    The picture here shows two Type L sockets with Europlug expansions on the sides (C/L combo), and an F/L combo in the middle.